Saturday, March 31, 2007
Day6-27.03.2007
Today at last I managed to take the helath report from the policlinic. Well we woke up hard this morning since we sat late at night looking at photos at my computer with the girls and after we talked (do not ask how) with Liza. Sometimes girls do not need same words to communciate- I really can understand her. This is also due to her character- she finds a way to explains herself.
In the morning it was so cold that we were freezing and it was very hard to get up. Anyway we went to the policlinic about 9:30 and we waited for her friend and after she decided not to anymore and applied officially. 150 Rubles for the report. Waited for the signs and that is all, nobody take a look at me. I have not seen "a" doctor. Just as it would be in Turkey.
After I thought I was lae for class and went to demographia. Erkan was not there and I sat and studied Abkhazian. Than Selin called me to say that the teacher decided to make an extra hour so I should come to the university. I hardly found a marshrutka (minibus) to go.
The teacher was kind and she made me read the alphabet and find some sounds such as the "p" and "p," sounds problematic. She made me read many things and told me to write somethings and study well for the things.
We had some kind of "milfoy acapuri" (bцrek) at the corner of telecom. 3 acapuri, pepsi for Selin and juice (sok) for me for 80 Rubles. Also we had some kind of desert that I liked from Adygeya called Kartoska. Selin bought them since I wanted but she could not eat.
Than I went to the hotel and had a bath. After I went to Demographia and met with Selin and Yeliz for a few minutes. (Yeliz- sister of Erdoрan that I had met before). Than went to the university with Erkan and did my registration by giving my papers to Tamara. Tomorrow, Erkan will call the rector and it will be complete. Than we met Sinejan and went to Selin's house to study English. She is really ambitious to learn English. Than we came back home with Liza at 7:30. We had Abista and Akut and ofcourse Cheese!.. I ate so much!!! And after Saide (Saya), the updoor neighbour called us and it appeared that she asked us for dinner. Oh, I had never eaten so much and she made me drink Champein. It was a nice one but half a bottle is too much with all that food!!! At least we could understand each other much more. Vadik- another neigbour and his father was also there. I slept feeling a little dizzy....
In the morning it was so cold that we were freezing and it was very hard to get up. Anyway we went to the policlinic about 9:30 and we waited for her friend and after she decided not to anymore and applied officially. 150 Rubles for the report. Waited for the signs and that is all, nobody take a look at me. I have not seen "a" doctor. Just as it would be in Turkey.
After I thought I was lae for class and went to demographia. Erkan was not there and I sat and studied Abkhazian. Than Selin called me to say that the teacher decided to make an extra hour so I should come to the university. I hardly found a marshrutka (minibus) to go.
The teacher was kind and she made me read the alphabet and find some sounds such as the "p" and "p," sounds problematic. She made me read many things and told me to write somethings and study well for the things.
We had some kind of "milfoy acapuri" (bцrek) at the corner of telecom. 3 acapuri, pepsi for Selin and juice (sok) for me for 80 Rubles. Also we had some kind of desert that I liked from Adygeya called Kartoska. Selin bought them since I wanted but she could not eat.
Than I went to the hotel and had a bath. After I went to Demographia and met with Selin and Yeliz for a few minutes. (Yeliz- sister of Erdoрan that I had met before). Than went to the university with Erkan and did my registration by giving my papers to Tamara. Tomorrow, Erkan will call the rector and it will be complete. Than we met Sinejan and went to Selin's house to study English. She is really ambitious to learn English. Than we came back home with Liza at 7:30. We had Abista and Akut and ofcourse Cheese!.. I ate so much!!! And after Saide (Saya), the updoor neighbour called us and it appeared that she asked us for dinner. Oh, I had never eaten so much and she made me drink Champein. It was a nice one but half a bottle is too much with all that food!!! At least we could understand each other much more. Vadik- another neigbour and his father was also there. I slept feeling a little dizzy....
Day 5-26.03.2007
I waited for Liza to wake up and get ready since she did not let me to leave alone and I was late to go with other girls. Anyway, she came to the city with me and I went to hotel and take a shower and came back for the Policlinic at 12:00 and when we went there they told us to come the other day!!! Зerkes saati= Circassian timing....
Than I met with Selin to take her Abkhazian notebook but since we decided to study English with Sinejan in her house, I left my bag there and went to the ministry. Timur had dropped by the internet cafe and asked for me. I went there and thanked him for the phone he borrowed me and returned it. Than had a walk araound the city under the rain. It was great. That green sea, and the clean air... I did not have my camera with me since I had left my bag at Selin's. Than I had Achapuri and tea at Narther- where we had been before... Well since it is an open air restaurant with small bugonvilles it was a little cold.
At Selin's ofcourse we chatted rather than study. Than I had to leave to the internet cafe to go to Liza's.
In the evening we had akut and looked at the photos with their neigbour Saida.
Than I met with Selin to take her Abkhazian notebook but since we decided to study English with Sinejan in her house, I left my bag there and went to the ministry. Timur had dropped by the internet cafe and asked for me. I went there and thanked him for the phone he borrowed me and returned it. Than had a walk araound the city under the rain. It was great. That green sea, and the clean air... I did not have my camera with me since I had left my bag at Selin's. Than I had Achapuri and tea at Narther- where we had been before... Well since it is an open air restaurant with small bugonvilles it was a little cold.
At Selin's ofcourse we chatted rather than study. Than I had to leave to the internet cafe to go to Liza's.
In the evening we had akut and looked at the photos with their neigbour Saida.
Day 4
I love Sundays! Because the next day is Monday which is when all will get solved- all will be working and I will be a student at the university!!! (I hope) Today I came to Kutarba's since I had promised. All morning I was at the hotel dancing and thinking. The weather was not so good so I did not go out. Ate my bananas and a little piece of cheese I could break since I did not have a knife and the dentist has forbidden to bite hard things because of my bracelets. Met with Liza about midday.
She was at a relatives house (Manana Kutarba-Khasba's) and was baking a tort. I sat and drank coffee, juice and ate pieces of her tort. The view from the balcony was incredible. It is a really old appartment with all those details and beatiful style. Just at the centre of the city. Milada and Davur the children were so lovely, smiling to me all the time...
After we took a marsrutka to Liza's house. It is a 5 room house. The room at the enterance is not included- that is the living room that opens to three places- one kitchen, one to the hall that has the bathroom, toilet and a room; and the dining room that opens to three rooms.
Their father was very angry to me when he learned that I will rent a place. He hold my ear, showed me a fist, told me I was his 8th daughter, told her girls to take my passport and than I would have to stay here, told it was too expensive to pay 80 dolars for a house where there is only a single room and no hot water.... They sincerely asked me to stay in their place.
Than their neighbour Saida, who is married to a returnee and who lived in Turkey for some years came. She spoke Turkish and she was so kind and so close- asked me to come to stay at their place (upstairs). She said I could never earn 80 dolars a month to give to a house- that it was too expensive... What will I do????...
She was at a relatives house (Manana Kutarba-Khasba's) and was baking a tort. I sat and drank coffee, juice and ate pieces of her tort. The view from the balcony was incredible. It is a really old appartment with all those details and beatiful style. Just at the centre of the city. Milada and Davur the children were so lovely, smiling to me all the time...
After we took a marsrutka to Liza's house. It is a 5 room house. The room at the enterance is not included- that is the living room that opens to three places- one kitchen, one to the hall that has the bathroom, toilet and a room; and the dining room that opens to three rooms.
Their father was very angry to me when he learned that I will rent a place. He hold my ear, showed me a fist, told me I was his 8th daughter, told her girls to take my passport and than I would have to stay here, told it was too expensive to pay 80 dolars for a house where there is only a single room and no hot water.... They sincerely asked me to stay in their place.
Than their neighbour Saida, who is married to a returnee and who lived in Turkey for some years came. She spoke Turkish and she was so kind and so close- asked me to come to stay at their place (upstairs). She said I could never earn 80 dolars a month to give to a house- that it was too expensive... What will I do????...
Day 3-24.03.2007
I again woke up early. Had the courage to have a shower this morning. Walk around the halls for the showers. Find it at the other corridor. Seemed clean. Had place to hang clothes and towels. Had a lock both at the main door and inside door. Took my things and went there. The water was cold for ten minutes and I was nearly going to cry but than first drops of hot water made the freezing water warmer. Than warmer and really hot. I had to wash my head with the soap I brought from Turkey since I had forgotten to take a shampoo with me. Still I feel like I need to scratch my head.
Anyway, after the shower I felt better but I still had those question marks going around my head. Should I take the flat for 2000 Rubles. Does it worth? What if two days later they tell me a better place for the same prize. Mixed up... Thinking about the facilities I may need. Internet will be a problem with a shared phone. I asked about the satellite net to Tugcan. He told me it cost 500 Dollars to build and have to pay 50 dollars every month. No thanks man! It is too much!!!
Later today Sinejan told me it is even slower than internet cafe connection which is dial up and really slow. Well, have to consider this detail deeply. Maybe would be best to connect from an internet cafe and I may have a separate line that I will not need to wait in the row and I may connect from my own computer. Should talk to Liza with the help of someone. Of course this means no internet after 5 o'clock in winter since there is no transportation and there is no single person in the streets after dark.
I dropped by to see Liza and tried to update the blog my diary. www.abkhaziadiary.blogspot.com. I copied the file maybe a hundred times but when I published it, it disappeared. I could not understand really why. I should write to my brother about that...
Than we met with Sinem and went to the sport centre where they played basketball with Sinejan and others. I realized I did not played basketball for 7 years. The ball seemed so strange and heavy and when I could not stop myself from playing without warm up I felt incredible pain in my arm and back. Still had some at the evening.
After we walked and Sinem went to an internet cafe and we talked with Sinejan about the English exam she will have next week and I promised to help her study. We went to a small market and I bought banana (kg-50 rubles) and smoked cheese (kg 170 rubles).
We met some returnees on the way and we sat with them. Everybody told the stories of a haunted house that one returnee owns. During the war the night they got back Sohum they get to this house where a Georgian woman whose son had died was living. The next morning the Georgians left Sohum and the house was left to them. As days passed interesting and unexplainable things had started to happen to each of them. They felt there was someone at the house. Fighting with them at their sleeping, woke them up, walk or run at the upstairs or all through the house when they were all downstairs together. I first thought it was the psychology of the war but they said they showed a video recording of something white and really fast moving in the house to all their friends that did not believed them back than... However, the recording was lost a week later... Interesting.... Was a good start for my research on Witch and Haunted believes of Abkhaz groups. However, it was getting dark and cold so we had to change our place to a closed restaurant.
We went to Pitztza and ate pizza. The talk started to turn on me after a while. They asked me if I was an agent- I said it would have been fun but no I am not. I think this is our destiny- I mean the academicians. And I think it is because all those academicians who play on both sides and do not do something because they wonder but because they have to.
By the way, though I had all the time rejected to be action oriented in field research I feel like my perception on this issue is starting to change. Will it be a problem? Will that effect my perception and approach to the issue. I feel the work I may do could do some real help to the people and Abkhazia...
Anyway, after the shower I felt better but I still had those question marks going around my head. Should I take the flat for 2000 Rubles. Does it worth? What if two days later they tell me a better place for the same prize. Mixed up... Thinking about the facilities I may need. Internet will be a problem with a shared phone. I asked about the satellite net to Tugcan. He told me it cost 500 Dollars to build and have to pay 50 dollars every month. No thanks man! It is too much!!!
Later today Sinejan told me it is even slower than internet cafe connection which is dial up and really slow. Well, have to consider this detail deeply. Maybe would be best to connect from an internet cafe and I may have a separate line that I will not need to wait in the row and I may connect from my own computer. Should talk to Liza with the help of someone. Of course this means no internet after 5 o'clock in winter since there is no transportation and there is no single person in the streets after dark.
I dropped by to see Liza and tried to update the blog my diary. www.abkhaziadiary.blogspot.com. I copied the file maybe a hundred times but when I published it, it disappeared. I could not understand really why. I should write to my brother about that...
Than we met with Sinem and went to the sport centre where they played basketball with Sinejan and others. I realized I did not played basketball for 7 years. The ball seemed so strange and heavy and when I could not stop myself from playing without warm up I felt incredible pain in my arm and back. Still had some at the evening.
After we walked and Sinem went to an internet cafe and we talked with Sinejan about the English exam she will have next week and I promised to help her study. We went to a small market and I bought banana (kg-50 rubles) and smoked cheese (kg 170 rubles).
We met some returnees on the way and we sat with them. Everybody told the stories of a haunted house that one returnee owns. During the war the night they got back Sohum they get to this house where a Georgian woman whose son had died was living. The next morning the Georgians left Sohum and the house was left to them. As days passed interesting and unexplainable things had started to happen to each of them. They felt there was someone at the house. Fighting with them at their sleeping, woke them up, walk or run at the upstairs or all through the house when they were all downstairs together. I first thought it was the psychology of the war but they said they showed a video recording of something white and really fast moving in the house to all their friends that did not believed them back than... However, the recording was lost a week later... Interesting.... Was a good start for my research on Witch and Haunted believes of Abkhaz groups. However, it was getting dark and cold so we had to change our place to a closed restaurant.
We went to Pitztza and ate pizza. The talk started to turn on me after a while. They asked me if I was an agent- I said it would have been fun but no I am not. I think this is our destiny- I mean the academicians. And I think it is because all those academicians who play on both sides and do not do something because they wonder but because they have to.
By the way, though I had all the time rejected to be action oriented in field research I feel like my perception on this issue is starting to change. Will it be a problem? Will that effect my perception and approach to the issue. I feel the work I may do could do some real help to the people and Abkhazia...
Day 2-23.03.2007
I woke up at 8:00 though I slept late. It is interesting to see how places change habits. In Istanbul I had lost controll of my life and would sleep in the morning and could not wake up before somebody woke me up. Here, I cannot sleep till midnight, but i wake up early in the morning. I hope this will not change after Sunday when they will arrange the hours according to the summertime.
Last night I misunderstood Liza when she called me by the phone at the hotel. I thought she asked me if I would like to go totheir village Kutol till Sunday this evening but she had said "utra" which i realised was "morning". I also had promised to be in Demographia for registration to the university at 10. Liza arrived at 8:30, and I had to say her I cannot come. Than she left, and I left for Demographia, again having a coffee with Maxim at the Ministry before that. They wrote me a paper saying I am the guest of Demographia and that they will pay for my stay at the hotel. I took back my passport from the hotel and took it to Demographia. They told me I should go to check up at the hospital at 2:30.
Erkan showed me the way to the restaurant opened by returnees from Turkey- called Antalya. I had Turkish Pide with Cheese and Sok (Juice) for 140 Rubles. The Juice is half a litre- not only a single glass.
Just as I was leaving I heard some guys talking in Turkish. Met Erdoрan and Turgut. They deal with some construction works. Erdoрan is living with his family and they returned a while ago. He has 2 girl sisters- Yeliz, an English Teacher and Filiz is a student of Abhaz language. Turgut is a new returnee- originally from Bilecik and he does not want to return back to Turkey. He said he wants to die here...
Than I met Okan, from Hendek. Came here during the war, saw his two borthers die, left Abkhazia for 6 years; but returned recently back to Abkhazia. Also I met Kavkaz, who blaimed his granny for giving him such a name that he has to carry so much responsibility. (Considering the paper I wrote about name giving traditions in Abkhaz and Adyge communities in Adpazarэ-Dьzce region he would have been a good example.)
I left for the hospital but when I arrived to Demographia I learned that the hospital was off on Friday afternoon. Registration was left to Monday... Wished I had gone to Kutol. However Liza had also returned from Kutol because she had to do somethings. She asked me to her house again but I said later. Anyway, together with Liza we went to see a flat that belonged to somebody Okan knew. They asked for 3000 Rubles. Top floor, single room, nice view, little balcony, new fridge, tv, no hot water (and maybe no water- i did not get that very clear) but promised to build the water pipes and I could get a heater for myself. All payments included at the rent- electricity, water, taxes, etc... Floor wooden (clean), wallpapered (not bad) and an average door (would be safe э guess because we could not even open it from inside). Said I will think.
At the internet cafe where Liza worked we came across another relative of Hayri who too us to Eteri- another close relative. Eteri showed me a flat in her appartment. 2000 Rubles for a room with bed, table, broken tv that will be repaired soon, working fridge and heater, all things that I may need. There is water but no heater so Eteri told me I can use her place to wash. This house seems safer since you enter one hall and than on the right the tenders house and left mine. Disadvantage: telephone will be shared- wonder if I can take another line?...
Later that day, I met with Gkecpha Selin and Sinejan. Selin came to study here 4 months ago. She has build her life, she had a housemate Jansel but since Jansel had to leave she lives alone. Everybody repeats to me that I should stay with her but I do not want to destroy her life, also that way we can never improve our languages. We will communicate in Turkish and all year goes to rubbish!
Anyway with them we had a dinner- hachapuri and tea- 50 Rubles each! I also met Tuрcan, another returnee here for about 8 months now. Sinejan is the daughter of a returnee family and is in Abkhazia for 4-5 years. After dinner they left me to the hotel. It was nice time we had but they told me I can find very good places for 2000 Rubles and now I have a question mark. Should I take the place or not hurry????
Last night I misunderstood Liza when she called me by the phone at the hotel. I thought she asked me if I would like to go totheir village Kutol till Sunday this evening but she had said "utra" which i realised was "morning". I also had promised to be in Demographia for registration to the university at 10. Liza arrived at 8:30, and I had to say her I cannot come. Than she left, and I left for Demographia, again having a coffee with Maxim at the Ministry before that. They wrote me a paper saying I am the guest of Demographia and that they will pay for my stay at the hotel. I took back my passport from the hotel and took it to Demographia. They told me I should go to check up at the hospital at 2:30.
Erkan showed me the way to the restaurant opened by returnees from Turkey- called Antalya. I had Turkish Pide with Cheese and Sok (Juice) for 140 Rubles. The Juice is half a litre- not only a single glass.
Just as I was leaving I heard some guys talking in Turkish. Met Erdoрan and Turgut. They deal with some construction works. Erdoрan is living with his family and they returned a while ago. He has 2 girl sisters- Yeliz, an English Teacher and Filiz is a student of Abhaz language. Turgut is a new returnee- originally from Bilecik and he does not want to return back to Turkey. He said he wants to die here...
Than I met Okan, from Hendek. Came here during the war, saw his two borthers die, left Abkhazia for 6 years; but returned recently back to Abkhazia. Also I met Kavkaz, who blaimed his granny for giving him such a name that he has to carry so much responsibility. (Considering the paper I wrote about name giving traditions in Abkhaz and Adyge communities in Adpazarэ-Dьzce region he would have been a good example.)
I left for the hospital but when I arrived to Demographia I learned that the hospital was off on Friday afternoon. Registration was left to Monday... Wished I had gone to Kutol. However Liza had also returned from Kutol because she had to do somethings. She asked me to her house again but I said later. Anyway, together with Liza we went to see a flat that belonged to somebody Okan knew. They asked for 3000 Rubles. Top floor, single room, nice view, little balcony, new fridge, tv, no hot water (and maybe no water- i did not get that very clear) but promised to build the water pipes and I could get a heater for myself. All payments included at the rent- electricity, water, taxes, etc... Floor wooden (clean), wallpapered (not bad) and an average door (would be safe э guess because we could not even open it from inside). Said I will think.
At the internet cafe where Liza worked we came across another relative of Hayri who too us to Eteri- another close relative. Eteri showed me a flat in her appartment. 2000 Rubles for a room with bed, table, broken tv that will be repaired soon, working fridge and heater, all things that I may need. There is water but no heater so Eteri told me I can use her place to wash. This house seems safer since you enter one hall and than on the right the tenders house and left mine. Disadvantage: telephone will be shared- wonder if I can take another line?...
Later that day, I met with Gkecpha Selin and Sinejan. Selin came to study here 4 months ago. She has build her life, she had a housemate Jansel but since Jansel had to leave she lives alone. Everybody repeats to me that I should stay with her but I do not want to destroy her life, also that way we can never improve our languages. We will communicate in Turkish and all year goes to rubbish!
Anyway with them we had a dinner- hachapuri and tea- 50 Rubles each! I also met Tuрcan, another returnee here for about 8 months now. Sinejan is the daughter of a returnee family and is in Abkhazia for 4-5 years. After dinner they left me to the hotel. It was nice time we had but they told me I can find very good places for 2000 Rubles and now I have a question mark. Should I take the place or not hurry????
Sorry...
Sorry for the styles, and problems but first of all the telecommunications technology is not much developed in Abkhazia, and second i am not very much used to the russian computer language :)))
The real Day 1- 22.03.2007
I thought I slept too much. I was wrong! It was only 8 o'clock when I woke up. I spent some time to tidy my stuff and more important my mind. Took some pictures of my room and the view from the balcony. Locked my computer in by luggage- incase... Got ready and left "Holiday House Abkhazia" at 9. Went out and walked through the town. Made a call to my mom- she was still asleep, or she did not answer since the numbers are not visible. I called Kutarba Hayri Ersoy, my collegue and consultant. He was so worried about my trip to Abkhazia that i did not have time to worry for myself. Later during the day, I learned he called everyone till morning since my Turkish line didnot work after I entered Abkhazia (nobody knows why) and he was really worried.
I said hi to Maxim and others at the Ministry of Foriegn Affairs while I passed by the parliamnet building. They were so sincere in their manners that I felt I have done right to come. They made me feel I belong here... I felt really shame when Maxim told me they are fasting (oruз) at the moment for 40 days till the Eastern. He told it when I gave him a box of chocolate. I felt so uncomfortable, but he was very kind and he wanted to reject the choclate. I told him to distribute it to his friends though later I wondered if they were all the same... Cultural differences- most important differences come with religion and religous beliefs.
After that I just dropped by to see Kutarpha Liza, but her sister was there instead. We hardly communicated with her but she hugged me and kissed me many times...
I arrived at the Ministry for Repatrition (Demographia as the returnees call it) at about 11. Kutarba Erkan, the vice president and a returnee met me there and took me to the University to become a prep student and study Abkhazian and Russian. However, the office was closed. We returned back to the Demographia. While I was waiting there all the girls working at the offices remembered me from the Congress time, many of them hugged me and show their happiness for my "return to the homeland". As we wait time passed and I started to wonder when the lunch break was since I only had a cup of coffee all day. At about 2:30 the girls at the office asked me if I would like to have a cup of tea with them. That was a very interesting combination of food at the table. Turюu (???), a kind of Sэzbal-Salad (Pancar Ezmesi), cheese, bread and of course ajuka. It was the greatest breakfast I had for days since I was so hungry. After, we went to the university one more time. This time we met the president and she said we need to register and she asked for health report, diplom, passport, 6 photographs. After I may start my classes, 2 days Russian and 2 days Abkhazian.
Later, I left and had a walk back to the Ministry from Demographia to meet Temur who we had also met during the Congress and had been in touch. Since his brother (cousin) was getting married he had a day off but when I called him he was very kind to meet me and spend a few hours with me. While I was waiting for him, I met Kuchba Ali- my Apsua Koshara teacher from Ankara who was doing some investment in his homeland. He insisted I should not stay alone since it may not be safe. I was a little uncomfortable with him insisting like that. I am still not very sure about this issue. Anyway, Temur than took me to buy a phone number. However, one of the two firms- aquaphone- asked for 50 dolars for the line that can be called internationally. The other one-amobile was 250 Rubles (1/5 percent of the other). Unfourtunately, since his sister was working in aquaphone she would arrange us taking it without passport. So with a-mobile we passed the street to see if Kutarba Liza was at the internet cafe she works, to ask her this favor. Her sister responded they have already bought a line for me and that they will give it to me next day. I met Kopsirgen Fэrat at the cafe. He is also a returnee from Turkey, married to local girl. He told me his wife speaks Turkish and that insisted I should be their guest.I found the right response to all those invitations: "I want to build a life here. If I will be your guest, nobody will help me to find a place of my own. Than it will not be my life, I will only be a tourist. Please let me find a place to rent. Than I will frequently be your guest." After he left, Liza's sister was very angry, as far as I understand becuase they wanted to take me to their place and that if I will go somewhere it should be their house. They met me long before and ask me to come to their place when I came in December.
Temur was very kind in giving me his second number and phone for the night. I may say I felt a little more comfortable, but thats not true because I started to think about the negative things when everybody told me it is not good to stay alone, in a hotel, etc. Than I realised, it was not the real danger that made them talk like that- it was part of the culture- they would feel guilty if they didn't show their hospitality. So I watched some parts of "Dark Angel" series to relax my mind and I slept a little late. By the way we just had Turkish coffee again and I bought a pack of biscuits for the night. Loved it but couldn't eat much of it. "Wada nigazarovannaya" (Still water) was also available at the shop so I may say I was lucky.
I said hi to Maxim and others at the Ministry of Foriegn Affairs while I passed by the parliamnet building. They were so sincere in their manners that I felt I have done right to come. They made me feel I belong here... I felt really shame when Maxim told me they are fasting (oruз) at the moment for 40 days till the Eastern. He told it when I gave him a box of chocolate. I felt so uncomfortable, but he was very kind and he wanted to reject the choclate. I told him to distribute it to his friends though later I wondered if they were all the same... Cultural differences- most important differences come with religion and religous beliefs.
After that I just dropped by to see Kutarpha Liza, but her sister was there instead. We hardly communicated with her but she hugged me and kissed me many times...
I arrived at the Ministry for Repatrition (Demographia as the returnees call it) at about 11. Kutarba Erkan, the vice president and a returnee met me there and took me to the University to become a prep student and study Abkhazian and Russian. However, the office was closed. We returned back to the Demographia. While I was waiting there all the girls working at the offices remembered me from the Congress time, many of them hugged me and show their happiness for my "return to the homeland". As we wait time passed and I started to wonder when the lunch break was since I only had a cup of coffee all day. At about 2:30 the girls at the office asked me if I would like to have a cup of tea with them. That was a very interesting combination of food at the table. Turюu (???), a kind of Sэzbal-Salad (Pancar Ezmesi), cheese, bread and of course ajuka. It was the greatest breakfast I had for days since I was so hungry. After, we went to the university one more time. This time we met the president and she said we need to register and she asked for health report, diplom, passport, 6 photographs. After I may start my classes, 2 days Russian and 2 days Abkhazian.
Later, I left and had a walk back to the Ministry from Demographia to meet Temur who we had also met during the Congress and had been in touch. Since his brother (cousin) was getting married he had a day off but when I called him he was very kind to meet me and spend a few hours with me. While I was waiting for him, I met Kuchba Ali- my Apsua Koshara teacher from Ankara who was doing some investment in his homeland. He insisted I should not stay alone since it may not be safe. I was a little uncomfortable with him insisting like that. I am still not very sure about this issue. Anyway, Temur than took me to buy a phone number. However, one of the two firms- aquaphone- asked for 50 dolars for the line that can be called internationally. The other one-amobile was 250 Rubles (1/5 percent of the other). Unfourtunately, since his sister was working in aquaphone she would arrange us taking it without passport. So with a-mobile we passed the street to see if Kutarba Liza was at the internet cafe she works, to ask her this favor. Her sister responded they have already bought a line for me and that they will give it to me next day. I met Kopsirgen Fэrat at the cafe. He is also a returnee from Turkey, married to local girl. He told me his wife speaks Turkish and that insisted I should be their guest.I found the right response to all those invitations: "I want to build a life here. If I will be your guest, nobody will help me to find a place of my own. Than it will not be my life, I will only be a tourist. Please let me find a place to rent. Than I will frequently be your guest." After he left, Liza's sister was very angry, as far as I understand becuase they wanted to take me to their place and that if I will go somewhere it should be their house. They met me long before and ask me to come to their place when I came in December.
Temur was very kind in giving me his second number and phone for the night. I may say I felt a little more comfortable, but thats not true because I started to think about the negative things when everybody told me it is not good to stay alone, in a hotel, etc. Than I realised, it was not the real danger that made them talk like that- it was part of the culture- they would feel guilty if they didn't show their hospitality. So I watched some parts of "Dark Angel" series to relax my mind and I slept a little late. By the way we just had Turkish coffee again and I bought a pack of biscuits for the night. Loved it but couldn't eat much of it. "Wada nigazarovannaya" (Still water) was also available at the shop so I may say I was lucky.
Day 1_ 21.03.2007
I wished it for so long... I wished to come to the Caucasus. I wished to come and study Circassian, imporve my Russian. I have already written a thesis about the North West Caucasus. But I knew the day I sat foot in the lands, where the grandparents of my grandparents, and relatives of so many people I knew were forced to leave, I knew that I belong to these lands... I left to come back as soon as possible. That was at the end of 2005. It does not seem to long when you count it. I came to see Abkhazia, exactly 1 year after I left Adygeya. The feeling was same. This time, I was not alone. There were 150 people with me at the airport who had come for the World Abhaz-Abazin Congress, many of which were living their first "homeland-motherland-fatherland" experience and a considerable amount had some kind of connection to the life here due to frequent visits.
I decided the first day, if I could, I should come to Abkhazia. I had many reasosn for this. For example, Sohum is more beautiful than the somewhat "urbanized" Maikop- though I could never put aside the beatiful days I lived there and it was much better than any town I had been to until than. Still, Maikop lacked the sincerety of Sohum. Sohum, had lived a war where most of the city was destroyed and the wounds did not yet fully covered from this experience. It is possible to see torn out buildings, holes in the walls, completely broken down houses and an unrenewed infrastructure all over the town. However, this does not make you feel a stranger to the realities of this city. Though the war is not forgotten and a young Abhazian reminded me that the smiles on the faces of the people was only for us-the exiled siblings, it was great to meet all those people who hugged you the first minute you met and invited you to come back to the homeland. Another reasons was I felt like I could be some use to the people of Abkhazia. I could help for the construction of the "social knowledge" infrastructure. I could do necessary impact assessment research for the development projects of the country. I could say at the Russian Language course "Abkhazia, eta maya strana". They appreciated the work I have done and told me I could be of use if I came.
They made me feel, I could do it. And here I am. In Sohum. After waiting for so long... I decided at the last minute to come with the plane. We were late at the airport. Last one to Check in and the contuar closed. They wrote my name wrong on the boarding card and changed it with complaints. The police at the passport controll accepted my paper saying I will attend a language course in the Russian Federation- though not there I will attend a Russian and Abkhazian language course soon. At the plane I realized I did not open my phone the international roaming- bad timing. Tried till the planed moved and manged to turn it on- it was as simple as dialing *131#. The girl sitting infront of me was very kind in arranging her seat in such a way that I could hardly breath. Who cared... The red wine and the mixed luch of cheese, salami and pasta was fine. I rushed to the door and than to the passport conttrol, which was of no use since a group of girls kicked me and passed me. After all, the passport controller asked me questions in Russian, and took my passport, leaving her place to ask some questions to her chief, and I had to wait for about 15 minutes at the first check. Than came the second check, I do not know why. This time it took about 5 minutes. Than they told we could take our luggage and I was again kicked by some ladies carrying 20 bags out. Than a policeman checked if we took our own bags... Than we had to wait for the customs check line. The girl sitting infront of me and her boyfriend kicked me to the side and passed infront of me. I saw them putting some rubles among their passports. I think the police find it too little since they kept them for some time. And they did not even look at my passport or bags, not even to my face. Just made a hand moment saying me to leave. I was so happy and I rushed to the door, and than to the exit. "Stop" said a policeman at the last door. "Passport" he said, showing another control personnel. Had to walk back, and give my passport and the guy, who had asked me to marry him when I came in December, told me I have to have a transit stamp and I have to wait till everyone leaves to take it since I have to return to the first desk! Bureacuracy!!!
Fortunatlely, Akuzba Yavuz was there to take me to Sohum. I told him and he said there is no need. When he said so, they said "if you are sure they won't ask at the Psou Customs..." he said yes and we left... And there was no need!.. Anyway, when we arrived to the Psou police controll, it was their dinner time and we had to wait for about 20 minutes. Than they let us in. Another, passport controll but this time to leave the Russian Federation. You have to walk through the bridge over the River Psou with your bags and we did. And we were in Abkhazia, and the Abkhazian customs checked our passports too: and we were in Abkhazia!!!
Than we came to Sohum in about an hour. They brought me to a hotel Abhazia- where they told me I could stay for a night with payment, and after they will give me a paper from the demographia and I may stay for free for a month.
Than we went to a restaurant to catch the last minutes of the dinner in honour of .... Soner, the new parlimantarian (choosen by the people of Abkhazia on 18 March 2007 elections) who is a returnee from Turkey. Did not stay too long and they brought me back to my hotel. And this time I had a good look around my room. It was not the best, neither the wors. I had seen worse conditions among my friends who were students in small towns of Turkey. Also, this was to change soon when I found a house for rent. The only annoying thing seem to be the voice of water splitting from the broken tub. I put a plastic piece under the splitting part and there was no more "shirrr" sound. Some kind of a truck passed seconds ago- making a lot of noise, but after Baрdat Street where I stayed at my grandpa's house the last six months it was nothing.
The phone doesn't work here though it did at the customs. I do not know why... I will anyhow have a local line tomorrow.
The electric heater makes the room warmer and it is not really cold. But I feel it is time to sleep now, since it has already been the second day. :)
I decided the first day, if I could, I should come to Abkhazia. I had many reasosn for this. For example, Sohum is more beautiful than the somewhat "urbanized" Maikop- though I could never put aside the beatiful days I lived there and it was much better than any town I had been to until than. Still, Maikop lacked the sincerety of Sohum. Sohum, had lived a war where most of the city was destroyed and the wounds did not yet fully covered from this experience. It is possible to see torn out buildings, holes in the walls, completely broken down houses and an unrenewed infrastructure all over the town. However, this does not make you feel a stranger to the realities of this city. Though the war is not forgotten and a young Abhazian reminded me that the smiles on the faces of the people was only for us-the exiled siblings, it was great to meet all those people who hugged you the first minute you met and invited you to come back to the homeland. Another reasons was I felt like I could be some use to the people of Abkhazia. I could help for the construction of the "social knowledge" infrastructure. I could do necessary impact assessment research for the development projects of the country. I could say at the Russian Language course "Abkhazia, eta maya strana". They appreciated the work I have done and told me I could be of use if I came.
They made me feel, I could do it. And here I am. In Sohum. After waiting for so long... I decided at the last minute to come with the plane. We were late at the airport. Last one to Check in and the contuar closed. They wrote my name wrong on the boarding card and changed it with complaints. The police at the passport controll accepted my paper saying I will attend a language course in the Russian Federation- though not there I will attend a Russian and Abkhazian language course soon. At the plane I realized I did not open my phone the international roaming- bad timing. Tried till the planed moved and manged to turn it on- it was as simple as dialing *131#. The girl sitting infront of me was very kind in arranging her seat in such a way that I could hardly breath. Who cared... The red wine and the mixed luch of cheese, salami and pasta was fine. I rushed to the door and than to the passport conttrol, which was of no use since a group of girls kicked me and passed me. After all, the passport controller asked me questions in Russian, and took my passport, leaving her place to ask some questions to her chief, and I had to wait for about 15 minutes at the first check. Than came the second check, I do not know why. This time it took about 5 minutes. Than they told we could take our luggage and I was again kicked by some ladies carrying 20 bags out. Than a policeman checked if we took our own bags... Than we had to wait for the customs check line. The girl sitting infront of me and her boyfriend kicked me to the side and passed infront of me. I saw them putting some rubles among their passports. I think the police find it too little since they kept them for some time. And they did not even look at my passport or bags, not even to my face. Just made a hand moment saying me to leave. I was so happy and I rushed to the door, and than to the exit. "Stop" said a policeman at the last door. "Passport" he said, showing another control personnel. Had to walk back, and give my passport and the guy, who had asked me to marry him when I came in December, told me I have to have a transit stamp and I have to wait till everyone leaves to take it since I have to return to the first desk! Bureacuracy!!!
Fortunatlely, Akuzba Yavuz was there to take me to Sohum. I told him and he said there is no need. When he said so, they said "if you are sure they won't ask at the Psou Customs..." he said yes and we left... And there was no need!.. Anyway, when we arrived to the Psou police controll, it was their dinner time and we had to wait for about 20 minutes. Than they let us in. Another, passport controll but this time to leave the Russian Federation. You have to walk through the bridge over the River Psou with your bags and we did. And we were in Abkhazia, and the Abkhazian customs checked our passports too: and we were in Abkhazia!!!
Than we came to Sohum in about an hour. They brought me to a hotel Abhazia- where they told me I could stay for a night with payment, and after they will give me a paper from the demographia and I may stay for free for a month.
Than we went to a restaurant to catch the last minutes of the dinner in honour of .... Soner, the new parlimantarian (choosen by the people of Abkhazia on 18 March 2007 elections) who is a returnee from Turkey. Did not stay too long and they brought me back to my hotel. And this time I had a good look around my room. It was not the best, neither the wors. I had seen worse conditions among my friends who were students in small towns of Turkey. Also, this was to change soon when I found a house for rent. The only annoying thing seem to be the voice of water splitting from the broken tub. I put a plastic piece under the splitting part and there was no more "shirrr" sound. Some kind of a truck passed seconds ago- making a lot of noise, but after Baрdat Street where I stayed at my grandpa's house the last six months it was nothing.
The phone doesn't work here though it did at the customs. I do not know why... I will anyhow have a local line tomorrow.
The electric heater makes the room warmer and it is not really cold. But I feel it is time to sleep now, since it has already been the second day. :)
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