Saturday, March 31, 2007

Day 1_ 21.03.2007

I wished it for so long... I wished to come to the Caucasus. I wished to come and study Circassian, imporve my Russian. I have already written a thesis about the North West Caucasus. But I knew the day I sat foot in the lands, where the grandparents of my grandparents, and relatives of so many people I knew were forced to leave, I knew that I belong to these lands... I left to come back as soon as possible. That was at the end of 2005. It does not seem to long when you count it. I came to see Abkhazia, exactly 1 year after I left Adygeya. The feeling was same. This time, I was not alone. There were 150 people with me at the airport who had come for the World Abhaz-Abazin Congress, many of which were living their first "homeland-motherland-fatherland" experience and a considerable amount had some kind of connection to the life here due to frequent visits.
I decided the first day, if I could, I should come to Abkhazia. I had many reasosn for this. For example, Sohum is more beautiful than the somewhat "urbanized" Maikop- though I could never put aside the beatiful days I lived there and it was much better than any town I had been to until than. Still, Maikop lacked the sincerety of Sohum. Sohum, had lived a war where most of the city was destroyed and the wounds did not yet fully covered from this experience. It is possible to see torn out buildings, holes in the walls, completely broken down houses and an unrenewed infrastructure all over the town. However, this does not make you feel a stranger to the realities of this city. Though the war is not forgotten and a young Abhazian reminded me that the smiles on the faces of the people was only for us-the exiled siblings, it was great to meet all those people who hugged you the first minute you met and invited you to come back to the homeland. Another reasons was I felt like I could be some use to the people of Abkhazia. I could help for the construction of the "social knowledge" infrastructure. I could do necessary impact assessment research for the development projects of the country. I could say at the Russian Language course "Abkhazia, eta maya strana". They appreciated the work I have done and told me I could be of use if I came.
They made me feel, I could do it. And here I am. In Sohum. After waiting for so long... I decided at the last minute to come with the plane. We were late at the airport. Last one to Check in and the contuar closed. They wrote my name wrong on the boarding card and changed it with complaints. The police at the passport controll accepted my paper saying I will attend a language course in the Russian Federation- though not there I will attend a Russian and Abkhazian language course soon. At the plane I realized I did not open my phone the international roaming- bad timing. Tried till the planed moved and manged to turn it on- it was as simple as dialing *131#. The girl sitting infront of me was very kind in arranging her seat in such a way that I could hardly breath. Who cared... The red wine and the mixed luch of cheese, salami and pasta was fine. I rushed to the door and than to the passport conttrol, which was of no use since a group of girls kicked me and passed me. After all, the passport controller asked me questions in Russian, and took my passport, leaving her place to ask some questions to her chief, and I had to wait for about 15 minutes at the first check. Than came the second check, I do not know why. This time it took about 5 minutes. Than they told we could take our luggage and I was again kicked by some ladies carrying 20 bags out. Than a policeman checked if we took our own bags... Than we had to wait for the customs check line. The girl sitting infront of me and her boyfriend kicked me to the side and passed infront of me. I saw them putting some rubles among their passports. I think the police find it too little since they kept them for some time. And they did not even look at my passport or bags, not even to my face. Just made a hand moment saying me to leave. I was so happy and I rushed to the door, and than to the exit. "Stop" said a policeman at the last door. "Passport" he said, showing another control personnel. Had to walk back, and give my passport and the guy, who had asked me to marry him when I came in December, told me I have to have a transit stamp and I have to wait till everyone leaves to take it since I have to return to the first desk! Bureacuracy!!!
Fortunatlely, Akuzba Yavuz was there to take me to Sohum. I told him and he said there is no need. When he said so, they said "if you are sure they won't ask at the Psou Customs..." he said yes and we left... And there was no need!.. Anyway, when we arrived to the Psou police controll, it was their dinner time and we had to wait for about 20 minutes. Than they let us in. Another, passport controll but this time to leave the Russian Federation. You have to walk through the bridge over the River Psou with your bags and we did. And we were in Abkhazia, and the Abkhazian customs checked our passports too: and we were in Abkhazia!!!
Than we came to Sohum in about an hour. They brought me to a hotel Abhazia- where they told me I could stay for a night with payment, and after they will give me a paper from the demographia and I may stay for free for a month.
Than we went to a restaurant to catch the last minutes of the dinner in honour of .... Soner, the new parlimantarian (choosen by the people of Abkhazia on 18 March 2007 elections) who is a returnee from Turkey. Did not stay too long and they brought me back to my hotel. And this time I had a good look around my room. It was not the best, neither the wors. I had seen worse conditions among my friends who were students in small towns of Turkey. Also, this was to change soon when I found a house for rent. The only annoying thing seem to be the voice of water splitting from the broken tub. I put a plastic piece under the splitting part and there was no more "shirrr" sound. Some kind of a truck passed seconds ago- making a lot of noise, but after Baрdat Street where I stayed at my grandpa's house the last six months it was nothing.
The phone doesn't work here though it did at the customs. I do not know why... I will anyhow have a local line tomorrow.
The electric heater makes the room warmer and it is not really cold. But I feel it is time to sleep now, since it has already been the second day. :)