Monday, August 20, 2007

Information for future visitors of Abkhazia!!!!

Information for future visitors of Abkhazia!!!!

1- You must understand that although Abkhazia seems in any international map you have, as part of Georgia, de facto it is not! It is an independent country with her own official institutions, own constitution and own regulations.

2- Please check if a visa to enter Abkhazia is required for you according to the passport you have at the Ministry of Foriegn Affairs of the Republic of Abkhazia's official website at :

www.mfaabkhazia.org

3- If you require a visa than please fill in the form at that page and send it to the ministry before your trip. Please consider you will have to pay 10 dolars for your visa at your arrival to Sohum otherwise you can not get your printed visa which is your ticket out! If you do not require a visa than enjoy your journey directly.

4- Please consider that Abkhazia's status is not recognized by any country officially (but people from all over the world recognize its independence-such as the UNPO members) and there is an ongoing embargo (still you can find anything you need). The borders are open but it is not very easy to pass because of the regulations and restrictions on both Georgian and Russian side.

5- If you will come from Adler-Psou, the Russian Border you can not leave the country from the Georgian border since you will be arrested by the Georgians and be charged 900 Euros and there is nothing we can do about that. If you require a visa for Russia than you MUST have a double entry visa to go back. The border is a little crowded in summer and autumn - since many people wants to come here for a cheap holiday and in autumn there is a trade of mandarin going on.Usually, Russians take their time in document checking since they want it to be as problematic as possible for the visitors so that they will not come again... Still last year, people from Germany, Spain, Denmark, Belgium, England, France and some other parts of the world came to Abkhazia.

6- If you will come from Georgia they say that you may have to wait for 2 weeks to get a permission which you may not receive at all. This is usually the answer when you ask if you can. I think the best way is to just go and pass the border but I do not want to be the one to suggest. The information I got is not trustable. But if you manage to get it than you may go back from the same border or through Psou to Russia if you have a suitable Russian visa. Sorry but Russians do not issue a visa at the border and there is no consulate in Abkhazia. If you go back to Georgia, it is possible that you may be questioned informally on your purposes of visit but it is not usually very problematic as far as I heard!

7- I know it seems too much trouble to take. But I think it will worth it!!!! Ask the people who have already come!!! We have the greatest nature, best sea, interesting traditional cousine, the Ritza lake region for mountaineers and people who love trekking and camping in the mountains (snowboarders came to Abkhazia just recently), religious monuments such as the 300 year old church, or the monastry, a great history that we know little about- the dolmens that belongs to an old past, the castles of hundreds of years, the exiled Abkhazians of the Tsarist period and their distinct Caucasian culture still living in the modern world, the Soviet heritage- we are all one and equal- you can still see the same piece of Muhina glass in every house, the Abkhazian-Goergian war of the 1990s- with its monuments and loss in every family and its remains in every corner, the transition period with its "capitals"- the market that has it all....

8- One last thing you should remember, when Abkhazia will be recognized officially you will have a chance to say: I was there before it was even recognized! I felt their belief in independence! I lived their independence within their borders! I knew it! And I supported it!!!!

And this is the end of the 14th August Memorial Day...


With three Abkhazian friends under the map they made with cloth pieces!

And we were on TV in the evening...

The youth organization was invited to the official National Abkhazian TV and so we were... I made a short speech in Abkhazian, having a look at a paper for the things I forget but it was all in Abkhazian and I thinked much better than talking in Turkish and having it translated. Now all will remember- she knew little but she talked big! Not something like - you do not speak my language, who are you to talk here- or worse, you tell us to not to speak in Russian and bossing us, and now you come on tv and talk in Turkish, puh! That was a little quarrel with the other girls from Turkey. I mean they knew much better Abkhazian than me, but since Abkhaz youth preferred to talk in Russian they preferred to talk in Turkish! Which I a little hardly and bossy rejected! I sometimes behave too much- but only for things I believe!!! And I believed it was worth reading or making mistakes in Abkhazian!!! They say I was fine... Which is good!!! And these are the youth watching the alive show- afterwards!

And than flags met at the red bridge...

And than flags met at the red bridge...Half coming from the Georgian border, the others from the Russian border...
There were Abkhaz from Abkhazia, Turkey, Moscow and other parts of Russia, an Adyg, a Migrelian (Megrel), Armenian... in the group and among the flag holders!!!

And the next morning we marched to the red bridge where the war started!!!

And the next morning we marched to the red bridge where the war started!!! And we three young girls from Turkey, one Adyg and two Abkhazian, carried an Abkhazia flag at the front...

And than a car came by...


With a special plaka written Apsyni. And one Abkhazian and one Adygeyan flag hanged on it!!!Ah my Adyg blood boiled up ofcourse! I ran and meet them but they were Abkhazians who had Adyg friends...

From the camp... at Machara
















And came the 14th of August! The Memorial Day of the War!!!

And came the 14th of August! The Memorial Day of the War!!!
It is the starting day of the war... And this is at the camp by the Abkhazian youth at the entrance of Sohum city, where the war started, and they marched from both borders to Sohum with flags and flowers for as much graveyard of war martyr...

Gypsies!!!


There are many of them in Abkazia... but this is my first eye contact with one... She holds a bird in the hand that takes out your fortune from the bottle!!! Wanna try???

When the group from Turkey came...


We saw how an average income buffet owner can give away what she has to her guests without a second thought!!! She cut the melons she should be selling when she learned we were Adyg and Abkhaz from Turkey!!!!

This is really Abkhazia!!!

You see we even have sea parachute! Or whatever it is called!!!!

A long late post....

It has been so long... It feels like months... Do not know where to start... Maybe from the last thing: I got my first HC visitors and it was great! Except that I somehow got ill and was in bed for two days. But I am recovering...

And thanks to a friend coming from Turkey I did not get too bored during this period. Because she brought the book I had ordered months ago! The 7th book of Harry Potter! It was hard to leave it when I had to run to the bathroom, or when I could not read because of the pain in my stomach, or when I had to sleep because of my fever but still I managed to finish it in these two days... It was great...

Well, it has been holiday for nearly two months and I spend about a month of this period in Turkey. The first was just after the first year exams- from Russian I got a 4 and from Abkhazian a 5 out of 5- and I went there basically for the wedding of my old friend from the university preparation course, a soul twin. Maybe I already wrote about that... And the second time I went just after 3 weeks for the wedding of my cousin, which was cute, and a circassian family friend's, which I could catch only the last dance to close it up since they were the same day; and the wedding of my Circassian friends from London- which I missed due to a hurt ankle. And, I voted at the national elections in Turkey, for the independent politician- I mean who would support a party if each is worse than the other....

Fortunately, my aunt was there too and it was great to see her sometimes I feel we have so much in common, and she really knows to listen to others- though only if she wants. Well, I should learn a little from her!!!

Before I leave friends came from Turkey. A group of young people, as part of an exchange program, and I had a friend among them. We hanged around with them for some time and I hosted the young girls one night. What a crowded house it has been...

When I arrived there was another group- the Circassian Friendship Club from Turkey. More than a month I did not talk in Abkhazian at all. And I forget it all! In a month! How can this be? Well how did I forget my Adygeyan? Though I hope it will come back when I improve my Abkhazian to a better level, it is gone for now... Russian? It survives somehow, but I did not study at all... I did not do any of my summer homeworks. Well I started but not at a good point to complete them in due time. On the first of September the university opens- and I am a bad student! I should be studying now!!!!

About my house a little, it turned out to be too noisy: with the butka next door that plays music till late night, and cars and trucks going crazily fast all day and night, and drunks singing in the streets till morning... I can not have a rest in this house! I still do not have an oven- can not cook but make tea with a spiral water heater... And it is good to eat fruits and salad and yogurt in summer....The house is not just noisy but it is also getting dirty very easily because of all these cars... I sometimes feel the things I wash up do not smell clean just because I have to hang them on the balcony which looks to the road. I clean, I wash, I wash the dishes-that I do not understand how I make so many dirty things in such a short time; I tidy- I mean one room house is a trouble. You do not have a space to be untidy!!!!

What else about me? I went to a repatriants house the weekend before. It was good talking and good experience and good study. I have to start doing something about my phd... At least to form a proposal...

And my young repatriant friend, Yeliz who have graduated from the Abkhazian Language and Literature Department here, turned out to be a better teacher than my writer friend Hayri since she can concentrate on the thing we do and she forced me to study a little more when I wanted to run away.

And we spend some time talking with another friend Shaika who has a possibility to go to my university this year... Otherwise she will be in Istanbul for her education!

Well, well... A lot has happened and have to choose the things that come to my mind... I made some interviews and wrote some pieces to the Jineps newspaper in Turkey.

I already wrote my article for the ESCAS conference to be held in Ankara next month. We have a panel there... About the Caucasus.... Come along if you will be around. 15th September, afternoon section...

I am working on another for the Abhaz-Adyg institutes' international ethnography conference in October about the Naming traditions among the Adyg-Abhaz diaspora in Turkey.

And we have organized a workshop as the Circassian Academia, our group for so long, that will take at the end of October in Abkhazia!!! Well, i am happy that I suggested it should be here since it will be great experience for all young academicians and a good support for Abkhazia, and I think I love to host people!!!!

By the way another group came from Turkey which is young and dynamic and I have some friends among them but I do not feel like talking in Turkish anymore. So I little avoided them- and I was ill... So maybe I should go and see what they are up to now. Oh and I need to take the books for the library that they brought...

I will try to keep up-to-date as I have been trying for so long....

Today I wrote a letter to the friend that wrote me 2,5 months ago to learn about my life in Abkhazia- who I had responded as, I will write you back in a few days!!! So I am better in updating my blog!!!

And, last minute news:

*Met my friend Saide from Maykop. A good talk about Adyg-Abkhaz life in the Caucasus!!! Should write that article soon!!!

**my idil- cousin- went to Japan for a summer school!!!! Cool. I misss her....