Tuesday, December 25, 2007

Kurban Bayram and the border trouble

The pain in my stomach started again. I don't need no doctors this time. I know the reason. It is the overwhelmed life that I am living, it is the stress of conflicting ideas in mind. It is me that is creating the pain.

The trip to Turkey was tiring and boring. On the way to the airport I tested my Russian by speaking to the border guards for 2 hours while they checked my things in detail. And after that at the airport they were unhappy since they could not find a reason to take -“ceza” as they say- punishment money from me. On the way back the plane (the new and a little cheaper firm -Siberian Airlines/S7) was delayed for nearly 3 hours and we arrived to Sochi/Adler Airport at 1 o'clock at night and they told us we need “immigrasoniy slujba” at the exit. Than there were two guards and they were saying my papers were missing and I said no they are not. They charged us of course though I rejected to pay my friend did pay it against my rejections. And than they said we can go. And we said no we need the “imigrasoniy slujba”. They said we do not need, we said we do need. Than they said they do not have it! The responsible personnel were not there, sleeping at home!!! We had to wait till morning. But some Abkhazian girls said they will rob us if we stay at the airport which seemed very realistic to me. So she took us under the rain over waters that filled the streets with all our bags and belongings to the airport hotel! We paid 250 rubles to the woman per person and we went to our rooms. In the morning we went down stairs and asked for registration, normally if you stay in a hotel in RF they need to make it for you but they said they do not have it. Besides if we want any papers to show we had been there for the night we need to pay extra 120 rubles per person. Still she was not sure if we paid the rest since the women had taken it all for herself and had not register us to the hotel! So she called her and after a hours discussion she said she will bring the money back. later so we got our papers and went to the airport. After a 30 minutes search I found the little building saying it was the place and ringed the bell a few times. Than a man who has just woke up (at 11 o'clock!) opened the door and looked at me with blurry eyes. He did the necessary procedure and it lasted only 3 minutes and I got my stamp and told him my friend will also come in a minute. Than I went to where we had hour bags and my friend went to take the stamp. His lasted like 20 minutes since he did not speak Russian and he had asked many many questions. Anyway we managed to do that and in the end we took a cab to Psou.

It was so crowded with mandarin traders. We could hardly walk among the huge mud and crowds. We passed the border faster than I accepted, I guess the problems were taking place parallel to the mandarin traders.

They should find a way to these problems at the border, maybe a legal taxation so that all will know what to pay.

Anyway, did you know that Russian Federation passport holders can get a visa to Turkey at the entrance for 20 dolars- 2 months. And since my visa is running out in 2 months I do not know how much I will need to pay. But if you take 1 25 day double entry visa it costs something like 120 dolars for Turkish passport holders.

I hope soon direct transport to Abkhazia will start and than we will not need to spend time on Russian borders.

Anyway, about Abkhazia I did not write much recently. I am currently working on an article on the food culture in Abkhazia. As I said it is the mandarin production that survives many of the families here. It is also the khurma that is very widespread among producers.

We had a Muslim Celebration, Kurban Bayram recently. And it was really stressing and fun at the same time. The stress came from the water problem- the children got diarrhea and it is really widespread. I was woken, on the first day of the Bayram by a repatriate families call saying they need my help to take their son to hospital. I ran to their house and we took a cab to the hospital. Though it was a holiday, there was an ongoing work in the Children's Hospital. They are making renovations at the building. There was a male doctor who did not really looked us in the eye, angry to someone or something running from here to there. A female doctor appeared out of nowhere and she was so kind and helpful. Checking the child for appendices and other things before deciding. Anyway, than they took us to a room and the beds were not clean at all and really cold so we put jackets to the bed and over the child. He did not want to have the serum but the Armenian care taker was talking in Turkish a little and Russian more, to relax him. Anyway, after many arguments and attempts we managed to find his vessel. Than we stayed there for an hour. The lady doctor and the care taker was checking us every now and than. Than they gave 5 different medicine including hydro-support and send us home. I think the taxi, medicine, some diet food and other payments take around 1200 rubles which is really a big sum of money. And all of this, their neighbor was paying since we could not follow it all.

Later that day, I changed and made visits to Gulripsh, where many repatriates live. That part was fun and I enjoyed a good taste of deserts, cakes and chocolates. A friend brought us home late at night. The next day was also same, visiting families and friends. Observing their reunions, chats, gossips, discussions on food and stuff. The stories of the past show that life was not easy years ago but now, life has changed in Abkhazia. Conditions are better, the borders are open, you can find or bring anything you wish. I have visited some really cool houses that you will not even see many places in Turkey. Plasma TV sets, latest design kitchens (metallic or classic wooden but complete white!), very comfortable and puffy cushions and sofas, big dining tables or American kitchens, all best quality. Very beautiful children, talking Abkhazian as their mother tongue but understanding Turkish and Russian as well as the other!

Life will not be the same in a few years. Things will change rapidly and where we will stand in this process of change? I am gonna be here in the Independent Republic of Abkhazia, enjoying the sea and the sun and these beautiful people, but what about you?