Dear followers (and first timers) of Abkhaziadiary!
This is the 110th and the last (for a while) post in Abkhaziadiary. I hope you have enjoyed reading my complex observations and feelings. I give a break since I will not be in Abkhazia for a while. I may have information that I wish to share but I will very likely give this in research.bazala.net website. We are still working on the Problems and Perceptions of the Youth Survey. (Mramza Chikirba, political scientist- researcher is leading the field work).
We have completed another short term research project of an international NGO- photos from the field work will be available soon in the abkhazidiary photoblog. (My computer crashed down so gotto wait).
The text message for Abkhazia works only for true belivers :) Upto now only one super friend managed to send me a text message (the first one). After now- my Abkhaz line is closed till I will be back so not to worry.
*Abkhazia has changed a lot since my first visit in December 2006. It has recovered a lot, now you see more colorful buildings and less bullet halls in the apartments and houses.
*Social life has turned very active, I missed a lot of great concerts in the last few months; however I managed to watch -for the first time- a 3D movie- AVATAR- in the philharmonic hall. It was fun and extraordinary.
*Political life is in constant mood of change, Abkhazia is trying to become multi-polar in external politics and has succeeded a lot in this by the recognition of Nicaragua, Venezuela, Nauru after Russia. Now we have a lot of internet sites in Spanish- and Spanish teachers and speakers of Abkhaz-Adyghe origin should use this to repatriate since there is need for them.
*The Committee of Repatriation has a new head, which means there will be changes in politics and practice of return migration in the next period.
*Education system still has many problems but at least everybody is aware and talking about these problems.
*Health Care Institutions are all under renovation. Which makes the sick people feel more comfortable about local treatment.
*International Abkhaz Passports are being distributed to students and soon they will be distributed to all citizens.
*The new term at the university have started and the youth want a change in the system to a western style education classification (instead of aspirantura, candidatski, doktorantura they wish magistratura and doktorantura).
*Now you can buy cheap and quality products of all kinds in Abkhazia. However, local agricultural production still needs promotion and infrastructure (roads) to decrease the food prices in the market.
Maybe there a lot more things to say and maybe I will edit this posts in the next few weeks but for a while, just for a while use other sources of information to learn about Abkhazia.
I will be back one day.
Sunday, September 19, 2010
Friday, July 16, 2010
How can you watch the clear sky and the stars as you see the lightening?
Yesterday I was in the balcony lying on the floor and watching the stars wishing for a falling star... I really needto catch one these days/// :( Anyway, the sky was clear but there was a kind of light. I thought it was someone with a porch lite. However, it was not. It was the lightening because I heard the thunder in a few moments. And one more time and one more time. How can you watch the clear sky and the stars as you see the lightening? In Abkhazia it is so possible. Yesterday morning, I was in Gulrypsh and it was raining. I came to Sukhum and there was no rain. It was sunny. Than a few hours later it started to rain in Sukhum. I went to Gulrypsh and it was sunny there... Climate is really interesting in Abkhazia.
Friday, July 2, 2010
Whats going on in the Diaspora?
This has become a frequent question I hear in both political and academic level in the last few months. Especially the last week, since they have shown the Abkhaz Associations Federation First General Council that took place in Ankara, in the state TV. Now everybody realized one thing: They have no idea about the Diaspora. They don`t know how to conceptualize the speeches given in the event. They don`t know how to understand the reasons of these divisions. They want to know more about the counter arguments that hinder unity in the Diaspora. They want to know what was done wrong in other institutions in the Diaspora that led to current divisions.
Sometimes people ask my personal opinion. I used to respond: I am an Adyghe living in Abkhazia what do you except me to think of new organizations that hinder Adyghe-Abkhaz unity?
Now I know better, and I say, I am a sociologist. For me every change is a phenomenon to study. Now I have a lot more things to study! :)
Sometimes people ask my personal opinion. I used to respond: I am an Adyghe living in Abkhazia what do you except me to think of new organizations that hinder Adyghe-Abkhaz unity?
Now I know better, and I say, I am a sociologist. For me every change is a phenomenon to study. Now I have a lot more things to study! :)
Tuesday, June 29, 2010
SMS to Abkhazia
World is turning the other way around :) Yesterday I sent an SMS to my friend in Turkey. She knew that she can not send me SMS back, but she gave it a try and WOW - now we have SMS to Abkhazia. This means that we can communicate cheaper with the world! Long live technology- at last you have reached us. It is a shame that now not many friends keep contact. Still anyone who wishes to send me an sms- you are welcome.
Wednesday, June 23, 2010
31st of May-Official Memorial Day of the Exile
On the 31st of May everything started as usual. People come together in the area where by September the memorial statue that weighs 3 tons is going to be installed. (I must have a picture of a smaller version somewhere and should remember to upload it in my album!)
The first flowers were put by the committee of repatriation which used to include a group of repatriants till this year. They were only employees of the committee. The repatriants except a bunch of 6 had protested the event since the government had not supported their event ten days ago. However, it must be noted that they did not ban the event as some argue. They just said they want the event to take place on the official memorial day for Abkhazia- 31st.
Anyway, the Presidential Administration followed the Repatriants, followed by groups of ministries, city administration, military representatives, police, students, war veterans. The most scenic moments of the event were the prays of the Imam and Bishop (and priests from the Abkhaz patriarchy) in front of the memorial.
The people scattered to their work or lives just after the Bishop`s pray by the memorial. However, the youth committee had other plans. With the tour ship that is now working between Gagra and Sochi transporting tourists, was loaded with young people and a little more crowded group of repatirants (12) they throw flowers to the sea.
And that was all...
The first flowers were put by the committee of repatriation which used to include a group of repatriants till this year. They were only employees of the committee. The repatriants except a bunch of 6 had protested the event since the government had not supported their event ten days ago. However, it must be noted that they did not ban the event as some argue. They just said they want the event to take place on the official memorial day for Abkhazia- 31st.
Anyway, the Presidential Administration followed the Repatriants, followed by groups of ministries, city administration, military representatives, police, students, war veterans. The most scenic moments of the event were the prays of the Imam and Bishop (and priests from the Abkhaz patriarchy) in front of the memorial.
 |
| From 2010-05-31 Memorial Day and Sukhum from the Sea |
 |
| From 2010-05-31 Memorial Day and Sukhum from the Sea |
The people scattered to their work or lives just after the Bishop`s pray by the memorial. However, the youth committee had other plans. With the tour ship that is now working between Gagra and Sochi transporting tourists, was loaded with young people and a little more crowded group of repatirants (12) they throw flowers to the sea.
 |
| From 2010-05-31 Memorial Day and Sukhum from the Sea |
And that was all...
Thursday, June 10, 2010
Kindergarden Graduation
When I was invited to the graduation ceremony of a repatirant girl, Yasmin, I was very excited. It was amazing to see all those little ones singing songs in Abkhazian, reading poems, playing small dramas, dancing all kinds of dances, and being so enthusiastic about life...
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| From Kindergarden Graduation |
Sunday, June 6, 2010
Visiting the Olympic Sports Center in Eshera
I decided to do something different on this nice silent sunday morning and we visited the Olympic Sports Center in Eshera.
It must have been amazing before the war. Wish there would be resources to renovate it. Eshera is at the entrance of Sukhum and the war was harsh in this area... Now we can only sense and listen to stories of what had been here... If it would have been renovated, it would have changed the future of many children, giving them opportunity to become good sportsmen, and ofcourse good people...
 |
| From Olympic Sport Center |
It must have been amazing before the war. Wish there would be resources to renovate it. Eshera is at the entrance of Sukhum and the war was harsh in this area... Now we can only sense and listen to stories of what had been here... If it would have been renovated, it would have changed the future of many children, giving them opportunity to become good sportsmen, and ofcourse good people...
 |
| From Olympic Sport Center |
Saturday, May 22, 2010
That day
So that day has come... 21st of may... The memorial day for the exile of Caucasians from their homeland. Some people oppose to the use of this term "exile". They say it was a chosen migration. They say the Muslims migrated. They say people went for better harvest. Some say the elite sold or convinced or took their people... Some say that it was not an exile but a deportation with agreement of parties... 
Some argue they had choices... Whatever they say, today the day that marks the end of the Russio-Caucasus wars, that is 21st of May, which was a day of celebration for Tsarist Russia of victory in the Caucasus, is a day of remembrance for the people who died in this event of the 19th century.
The family histories, and records of official archives, say that people were put on ships. The ships were overloaded, and many sank on the way. Many people died of hunger and diseases on the ships and after arrival.
The territories shown to migrants were not suitable for settlement, many more died in the next months.
The last couple of decades, the remembrance day, 21st of may, has been the most important event of all political-cultural organizations of the Diaspora. Before the dissolution of the Soviet Union, the memorial day was also a big event in Abkhazia. Last year they showed on TV how people travel from all regions, in buses, and how crowded it was. The president of the time -Bagrat Shinkuba, the writer of the famous book THE LAST OF THE DEPORTED- was making a speech about the exile.
Just yesterday, an early returnee was telling me how crowded it would be and how they would throw flowers with candles to the sea from a ship, and even on the most wavy day the flowers would float away to Black Sea...
Three years ago when I came, the event was just a flower putting ceremony on the morning of the 31st. It was very interesting to learn that, in Abkhazia, it was suggested during the war by president Ardzynba, that it should be on the 31st. The Adyghe brothers will do their ceremonies in their hometowns on the 21st, and they would all come to Abkhazia and on the 31st it would be a bigger ceremony all together. Besides, Abkhaz were exiled 13 years later than Adyghe. So it was decided and memorial was on the 31st. The first year I was in Abkhazia, I wanted to memorize Shish Nanni and read it, but they told me nobody makes here such events.
The second year, Naala did organized one. All alone, I mean without any government or institutional support, just with her friends, and with an economic support by Aquafon, she arranged the first memorial day. It was sometime in June, but it did not matter. A group of people came. We made the tailors sew 20 red-green-white akhtarphas, like the Abkhaz flag, within 4 hours! Lana Copua was reading a poem, Nona and a few others were singing Shish Nanni. Some people made speeches, Bagrat Shinkuba's grandson Lavan was there; Hayri Kutarba was there. Kamma had a big Abkhaz flag. Later when we went to drink something at than new Apra Cafe, from all the tables they sent us champaignes since we were talking in Abkhaz (trying) and we had aktharphas and flags. At the event, we were promised to be supported by the Repatraition Committee in the coming year.
The second year, ofcourse, they were hesitant to keep their promises. But in the end, we organized with Lana Agyrba an exhibition called Abkhazia and Diaspora: Understanding each other... We also shot a short symbolic movie on exile and return... The event was big. More than a thousand people and both TVs came to shoot. We had the sound system, screen, the first and only concert of the chorus apsadgyl (homeland) with Ivana Shamba, we had the white aktarphas (again 20), we had the torches prepared by Syndukh Ergun and the youth, again Lana Copua reading a poem, and many others... The event was very spectecular... We even made a protest for not building of a statue in the memorial. The events were supported by Repatriation Committee, Committee of Sports and Youth, and even Ministery for Foreign Affairs.
This year Ozlem and Naala, organized again with the Committee of Sports and Youth but in the last minute, the government opposed the ceremony to be made on the 21st. The SMS were sent by both mobile phone companies, and a few hours later messages came saying it will be on the 31st. However, without any state representative, without any TVs to record, without any sound system, without half of the planned speakers, the youth did it again. There were only about 100 people to watch. But they were there all from heart. That was good. There were new aktarphas, mainly black but also green and white. I do not know the number since I was not in the event organization. (I had been away for a while, and the last two weeks I have a terrible throat infection which keeps me back from taking place in aything!) Naala was in a traditional dress so was Dijin who was playing the flute (an Adyghe from Turkey who lived in Nalchik for over 15 years). Ivan Bakij, our famous singer who returned from Jordan was wearing an akhtarpha over his shoulders as he played his guitar. Taha Gecba was dressed all in black, as he sang songs in Adyghe. Little Ozan was again reading a poem in Abkhazian. There were short speeches by some attendees. The youth walked with torches again and made the nart fire! No matter what people say. No matter what people fear. No matter how, no matter what, no matter why... If some people believe in what they do: the result is unforgettable... This is how that day was in Abkhazia... For those who wish to know... (For those who wish to see more photos press here)
Oh and I forgot to tell, there was the Yearly Dance Contest Adyzh and the view was spectecular as they walked through the city on that day...
Some argue they had choices... Whatever they say, today the day that marks the end of the Russio-Caucasus wars, that is 21st of May, which was a day of celebration for Tsarist Russia of victory in the Caucasus, is a day of remembrance for the people who died in this event of the 19th century.The family histories, and records of official archives, say that people were put on ships. The ships were overloaded, and many sank on the way. Many people died of hunger and diseases on the ships and after arrival.
The territories shown to migrants were not suitable for settlement, many more died in the next months.
The last couple of decades, the remembrance day, 21st of may, has been the most important event of all political-cultural organizations of the Diaspora. Before the dissolution of the Soviet Union, the memorial day was also a big event in Abkhazia. Last year they showed on TV how people travel from all regions, in buses, and how crowded it was. The president of the time -Bagrat Shinkuba, the writer of the famous book THE LAST OF THE DEPORTED- was making a speech about the exile.
Just yesterday, an early returnee was telling me how crowded it would be and how they would throw flowers with candles to the sea from a ship, and even on the most wavy day the flowers would float away to Black Sea...
Three years ago when I came, the event was just a flower putting ceremony on the morning of the 31st. It was very interesting to learn that, in Abkhazia, it was suggested during the war by president Ardzynba, that it should be on the 31st. The Adyghe brothers will do their ceremonies in their hometowns on the 21st, and they would all come to Abkhazia and on the 31st it would be a bigger ceremony all together. Besides, Abkhaz were exiled 13 years later than Adyghe. So it was decided and memorial was on the 31st. The first year I was in Abkhazia, I wanted to memorize Shish Nanni and read it, but they told me nobody makes here such events.
The second year, Naala did organized one. All alone, I mean without any government or institutional support, just with her friends, and with an economic support by Aquafon, she arranged the first memorial day. It was sometime in June, but it did not matter. A group of people came. We made the tailors sew 20 red-green-white akhtarphas, like the Abkhaz flag, within 4 hours! Lana Copua was reading a poem, Nona and a few others were singing Shish Nanni. Some people made speeches, Bagrat Shinkuba's grandson Lavan was there; Hayri Kutarba was there. Kamma had a big Abkhaz flag. Later when we went to drink something at than new Apra Cafe, from all the tables they sent us champaignes since we were talking in Abkhaz (trying) and we had aktharphas and flags. At the event, we were promised to be supported by the Repatraition Committee in the coming year.
The second year, ofcourse, they were hesitant to keep their promises. But in the end, we organized with Lana Agyrba an exhibition called Abkhazia and Diaspora: Understanding each other... We also shot a short symbolic movie on exile and return... The event was big. More than a thousand people and both TVs came to shoot. We had the sound system, screen, the first and only concert of the chorus apsadgyl (homeland) with Ivana Shamba, we had the white aktarphas (again 20), we had the torches prepared by Syndukh Ergun and the youth, again Lana Copua reading a poem, and many others... The event was very spectecular... We even made a protest for not building of a statue in the memorial. The events were supported by Repatriation Committee, Committee of Sports and Youth, and even Ministery for Foreign Affairs.
This year Ozlem and Naala, organized again with the Committee of Sports and Youth but in the last minute, the government opposed the ceremony to be made on the 21st. The SMS were sent by both mobile phone companies, and a few hours later messages came saying it will be on the 31st. However, without any state representative, without any TVs to record, without any sound system, without half of the planned speakers, the youth did it again. There were only about 100 people to watch. But they were there all from heart. That was good. There were new aktarphas, mainly black but also green and white. I do not know the number since I was not in the event organization. (I had been away for a while, and the last two weeks I have a terrible throat infection which keeps me back from taking place in aything!) Naala was in a traditional dress so was Dijin who was playing the flute (an Adyghe from Turkey who lived in Nalchik for over 15 years). Ivan Bakij, our famous singer who returned from Jordan was wearing an akhtarpha over his shoulders as he played his guitar. Taha Gecba was dressed all in black, as he sang songs in Adyghe. Little Ozan was again reading a poem in Abkhazian. There were short speeches by some attendees. The youth walked with torches again and made the nart fire! No matter what people say. No matter what people fear. No matter how, no matter what, no matter why... If some people believe in what they do: the result is unforgettable... This is how that day was in Abkhazia... For those who wish to know... (For those who wish to see more photos press here)
Oh and I forgot to tell, there was the Yearly Dance Contest Adyzh and the view was spectecular as they walked through the city on that day...
 |
| From dance |
Wednesday, May 19, 2010
Fieldwork in Abkhazia (2)
While organizing the fieldwork I had many problems to deal with. Since I do not have a good assistant who can organize the people and transport. At the NGO and in the first project I had Martha to help me with everything, some of you who read this blog frequently will remember she recently got married and is living happily in Moscow for the time being. I am looking for her return not that because she will be a great partner in research but also she is a great friend, making your day all the time with her comforting smile. Anyway, when she was in Abkhazia, she comfortably organized people and transport and all I had to tell was when and where to. I realized how much work she had to do when I had to call and recall all my team to fix a suitable group for a region. What can be so hard about is, I want to take all team members to places they have never been. Abkhazia is a small country but local people who are not involved in works that force them to travel around, do not visit any place except for weddings or funerals. And social events means responsibilities as I mentioned before. So many of them do not even realize the historical remains or natural beatuies they pass by. When we are in the field, I want to see these things and I want the team to see them. It should be something more than work, more than running from one respondent to another, it should be something they enjoy doing. I try to take them to places they have never been which is a hell of a job since they are not always available for work and I dont want them to loose that chance to see there.
I want to make sure fieldwork gives them a lot of memories, unforgettable ones, some laugh, some good taste of food if possible. In our first fieldwork, once we were trying to finish a village and it was after lunch time and all our food was finished and everybody was very hungry. I had thought we would be in the city by than and be in a restaurant so I had food enough only for breakfast. From one of the houses that we were making an interview, a man came with fresh home made cheese, freshly baked cheesebread (achoaf) and acika (peppersalt). We wanted to reject it but at the same time very much wanted to eat it. So I was -as traditions required- rejecting nicely. And the host just put it on the seat of the car. When he saw we were too many, he called his wife to bring more and we were presented some more bread. When we were eating it I just thought this is the most delicious thing I have ever eaten. That taste has been unforgettable to all the team, just like it has been to me. And I know that when this story is retold in the field `it is time to eat something!`.
Since now I know the conditions, I make orders on the night before so that we will have enough food in the rural areas. In many parts of Abkhazia, you wont have a chance to find a restaurant and even a small village shop to buy a drink or bread. Villages are self sustained in most senses and only some durables are sold in the village shops (if there is any). Many people go for shopping once a month to the cities or town centres, or they ask for relatives working in the city to bring in things when they come to the village in the weekends. Still, in all the houses you will be offered what ever they have, for sure a cup of coffee (not instant one), very likely a piece of homemade cheese, homegrown hazelnuts and/or fruits, some chocolate and ofcourse homemade wine or chacha (double destilled vodka with about 70 % alcohol). I leave the choice to eat or drink to the team, except alcohol. Since I know it will never end, if they start traditional drink and pray ceremony and I would not like my interviewers to be drunk. So they are strictly forbidden. However, once during the beneficiary assessment, we were in a village where each house is located far from one another. I left the male interviewer alone and asked him to go to three houses nearby (still he had to walk 20 minutes) and and wait for our return in the last one. Though we had the car, we had to travel 40 minutes drive to reach one of the houses. And by the time we returned to pick him, he was in the last house for over an hour and the phones were not wroking in this village. So they made him drink (and he had no other option) so he was all drunk and complaining to me saying it was my fault to leave him there, though I understood and was not angry to him. Somethings are unavoidable.
The climate in Abkhazia, is also a problem for fieldworkers. You may start the day with a warm sun and end soaked up in heavy rain. Many times I had to build up a system to dry wet questionnaires at the back of the car. I wished to buy special trasnparent pancho rain coats for the team but never found something as I wished. Still after many times being soaked in the field, or freezing because of sudden weather change, I have to remind the team to take umbrellas and coats with them in all seasons. Besides, the young people in Abkhazia are really caring for how they look and sometimes I laugh at their choices of clothing for rural fieldwork. They wear white shoes, and ofcourse stop many times to clean them from the mud they had to step on while entering a house or manure they stepped on just by mistake. Short skirts are also funny since they do not have the chance to move comfortably though clothing is not a problem for village elderly as I had seen in rural Turkey. There girls should really care what they wear.
Security is not an issue in fieldwork in Abkhazia, though I care very much about it. What I mean is, we have never been treated badly or threatened in anyhow. OfcourseI do not count a drunk elderly wishing to have a photo with one of the girls hugging her, or a mentally ill kid following us all through the village.
I am sure I have a lot more to say about fieldwork, but I guess all this will be enough to understand how we do it in Abkhazia. If you are interested in knowing about ethical issues or more about our projects you can visit our website.
It is time for abkhaziadiary to be back to daily issues.
I want to make sure fieldwork gives them a lot of memories, unforgettable ones, some laugh, some good taste of food if possible. In our first fieldwork, once we were trying to finish a village and it was after lunch time and all our food was finished and everybody was very hungry. I had thought we would be in the city by than and be in a restaurant so I had food enough only for breakfast. From one of the houses that we were making an interview, a man came with fresh home made cheese, freshly baked cheesebread (achoaf) and acika (peppersalt). We wanted to reject it but at the same time very much wanted to eat it. So I was -as traditions required- rejecting nicely. And the host just put it on the seat of the car. When he saw we were too many, he called his wife to bring more and we were presented some more bread. When we were eating it I just thought this is the most delicious thing I have ever eaten. That taste has been unforgettable to all the team, just like it has been to me. And I know that when this story is retold in the field `it is time to eat something!`.
Since now I know the conditions, I make orders on the night before so that we will have enough food in the rural areas. In many parts of Abkhazia, you wont have a chance to find a restaurant and even a small village shop to buy a drink or bread. Villages are self sustained in most senses and only some durables are sold in the village shops (if there is any). Many people go for shopping once a month to the cities or town centres, or they ask for relatives working in the city to bring in things when they come to the village in the weekends. Still, in all the houses you will be offered what ever they have, for sure a cup of coffee (not instant one), very likely a piece of homemade cheese, homegrown hazelnuts and/or fruits, some chocolate and ofcourse homemade wine or chacha (double destilled vodka with about 70 % alcohol). I leave the choice to eat or drink to the team, except alcohol. Since I know it will never end, if they start traditional drink and pray ceremony and I would not like my interviewers to be drunk. So they are strictly forbidden. However, once during the beneficiary assessment, we were in a village where each house is located far from one another. I left the male interviewer alone and asked him to go to three houses nearby (still he had to walk 20 minutes) and and wait for our return in the last one. Though we had the car, we had to travel 40 minutes drive to reach one of the houses. And by the time we returned to pick him, he was in the last house for over an hour and the phones were not wroking in this village. So they made him drink (and he had no other option) so he was all drunk and complaining to me saying it was my fault to leave him there, though I understood and was not angry to him. Somethings are unavoidable.
The climate in Abkhazia, is also a problem for fieldworkers. You may start the day with a warm sun and end soaked up in heavy rain. Many times I had to build up a system to dry wet questionnaires at the back of the car. I wished to buy special trasnparent pancho rain coats for the team but never found something as I wished. Still after many times being soaked in the field, or freezing because of sudden weather change, I have to remind the team to take umbrellas and coats with them in all seasons. Besides, the young people in Abkhazia are really caring for how they look and sometimes I laugh at their choices of clothing for rural fieldwork. They wear white shoes, and ofcourse stop many times to clean them from the mud they had to step on while entering a house or manure they stepped on just by mistake. Short skirts are also funny since they do not have the chance to move comfortably though clothing is not a problem for village elderly as I had seen in rural Turkey. There girls should really care what they wear.
Security is not an issue in fieldwork in Abkhazia, though I care very much about it. What I mean is, we have never been treated badly or threatened in anyhow. OfcourseI do not count a drunk elderly wishing to have a photo with one of the girls hugging her, or a mentally ill kid following us all through the village.
I am sure I have a lot more to say about fieldwork, but I guess all this will be enough to understand how we do it in Abkhazia. If you are interested in knowing about ethical issues or more about our projects you can visit our website.
It is time for abkhaziadiary to be back to daily issues.
Friday, April 2, 2010
Fieldwork in Abkhazia
I applied to attend the meeting of the World Abkhaz-Abaza People's Assembly and said I will stay only for three days. At the airport, to see the joy and excitement of all those people, made me change my mind and I said, I will stay for a week together with the long term group. IT was a good decision. On the second and last day of the meeting, the had prepared a dinner. There I was walking around the tables and stopped by a table full of young people where joyful laughs was heard. I asked if anyone spoke English, and found out these people were the employees of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Abkhazia and all spoke English. One of them was very kind and friendly and asked me to the table. I explained to him that I was a sociologist and I would like to know his opinion and feelings about the event. (Than my Russian was really poor, I had no practice at all so I could only communicate with English speakers). This young boy, with glowing look in his eyes, told me how he was happy to see his people smiling, first time since the war. He told me how it was important that Abkhaz should return to their homeland... I said I was interested very much in the topic of return... Than my focus was more on Adygeya though... He said we need sociologists in Abkhazia and I said "will you help me if I come?". "Anything I can do..." Before I get up from that table (a few hours later) I promised him I will come back to stay and work on the topic of return migration/repatriation and any other topic that will be usefull for them. He on the other hand promised to help me with the language school at the university, accommodation, connections and job if I wish. He did everything he could as he promised. Wrote for me many letters, made many calls. Even one year after I came to Abkhazia, I told I will take the job he offered me a year ago, and I am still working in that centre... That boy was Maxim Gunjia, my first friend in Abkhazia, now the Minister of Foriegn Affairs, back than Vice Minister. A person who can be happy with a smile on his people's face. A person who can keep his promises. I was lucky to know him. Because thanks to him, I came to Abkhazia.
Anyway, working with migrant communities is always hard. In the case of Abkhazia, where people have "many others" and always feel the sense of "being the other" it was also hard. There has been moments that I wanted to give up on this topic and leave or live but away from the return migrants. However, there has been always people motivating me for the study of this topic, as many as there were people trying to de-motivate me.
Still my first country wide field work experience came with a position I took in an NGO in 2008. They asked me to do a survey and I said there is no sociology department and I need to educate young people so that what we do will be of good quality.
I organized 4 parallel trainings on field research methodology, with more than 40 people but only 15 of them could complete the training. The second group was 4 months later and just before I was starting the field work on the countrywide political participation and pre-election survey. Though I was a stranger in the field, and my team was unexperienced, we managed to do 1130 Questionnaire interviews- anonym (since the topic was sensitive) in all over Abkhazia. I used the voting regions (36 of them but the last three was combined into 1 since I did not have the full list) as stratas and the team did at least 30 interviews with random people in all stratas.
Anyway, less than a year after the first country wide survey, I established a firm for Social and Market Research (research.bazala.net) and realized a second wide survey- a beneficiary asessment about a development project. The third project came just after that, and we have just recently finished the fieldwork since we had many reasons to delay our work, including elections in December (and pre-election period) which was stressfull though our topic was non political; New Year Celebrations that last about a month (Christmas, New Year, Old New Year, New-old New year, etc....) when people were all drunk; the exams in the university, since many of the team members are students at the university; holiday after the exams, since we all needed a rest; than the loss of Abkhazia's first president Ardzynba...
However, it was hard to work due to these big events, in general it is hard to find the right day and time for interviewing in Abkhazia. Every friday, saturday and sunday are filled with marriages. Many days people are busy with funerals and memorial feasts of their extended families and friends' families. Weekdays, people go to the cities to do some jobs they need to, to shop, and even to work and come back "home" in the village for weekends.
Most team members are enrolled at the university in the weekdays. So we had to work in the weekends which was hard due to social responsibilities of possible respondents. But we managed, by leaving the city as early as 8-8.30 and arriving to the villages just when people are finishing their breakfasts and before they leave their houses.
To be continued
Anyway, working with migrant communities is always hard. In the case of Abkhazia, where people have "many others" and always feel the sense of "being the other" it was also hard. There has been moments that I wanted to give up on this topic and leave or live but away from the return migrants. However, there has been always people motivating me for the study of this topic, as many as there were people trying to de-motivate me.
Still my first country wide field work experience came with a position I took in an NGO in 2008. They asked me to do a survey and I said there is no sociology department and I need to educate young people so that what we do will be of good quality.
I organized 4 parallel trainings on field research methodology, with more than 40 people but only 15 of them could complete the training. The second group was 4 months later and just before I was starting the field work on the countrywide political participation and pre-election survey. Though I was a stranger in the field, and my team was unexperienced, we managed to do 1130 Questionnaire interviews- anonym (since the topic was sensitive) in all over Abkhazia. I used the voting regions (36 of them but the last three was combined into 1 since I did not have the full list) as stratas and the team did at least 30 interviews with random people in all stratas.
Anyway, less than a year after the first country wide survey, I established a firm for Social and Market Research (research.bazala.net) and realized a second wide survey- a beneficiary asessment about a development project. The third project came just after that, and we have just recently finished the fieldwork since we had many reasons to delay our work, including elections in December (and pre-election period) which was stressfull though our topic was non political; New Year Celebrations that last about a month (Christmas, New Year, Old New Year, New-old New year, etc....) when people were all drunk; the exams in the university, since many of the team members are students at the university; holiday after the exams, since we all needed a rest; than the loss of Abkhazia's first president Ardzynba...
However, it was hard to work due to these big events, in general it is hard to find the right day and time for interviewing in Abkhazia. Every friday, saturday and sunday are filled with marriages. Many days people are busy with funerals and memorial feasts of their extended families and friends' families. Weekdays, people go to the cities to do some jobs they need to, to shop, and even to work and come back "home" in the village for weekends.
Most team members are enrolled at the university in the weekdays. So we had to work in the weekends which was hard due to social responsibilities of possible respondents. But we managed, by leaving the city as early as 8-8.30 and arriving to the villages just when people are finishing their breakfasts and before they leave their houses.
To be continued
Wednesday, March 24, 2010
Fieldwork
What I most like about doing research is traveling around. The first country I have traveled from Turkey was Azerbaijan. I traveled there for a field work on internet and democratization. I did in-depth interviews and worked from early morning to late at night since I had to fit to the schedules of my informants, and most of the time they were talking so much and sending me to some other people. My host was a nice lady, a russian language teacher, azeri nationalist, hard working, open minded person. She told me on the weekend-- you cant work everyday! You have a right to rest and you should visit holy places when you travel to some new place. It is good and a necessity for your psychology. So she took me to the museum, zoroaster temple, a mosque... and to a wedding of her relative. I danced with the people and the bride at the wedding. And with joy sent a message to my boss (I was working as a researcher at a center in the university) with a picture of me dancing. Saying it has been a great opprtunity and thanking her... I returned to Ankara and was sent to United Kingdom, to do research on the networking of Turkish speaking community by the Institute where I was writing my masters. My boss told me-- you wont find a wedding to dance in the UK. The first days we spent in Oxfordand when we went to London to do the field work, the first night we went to Cemevi (religous center of Alevis) and encountered a circumcision feast and I danced with the people and took a picture to send to my boss. I wrote to her-- you can never know what you will come across in the field.
So after this I was more comfortable, more open minded, and enjoyed every minute of field work travels. Because I knew-- anyhting could happen and it will be informative for my work and good feeling for my soul.
My third field work outside of Turkey was to Romania, to understand the determining factors of identity of the Crimean Tatars. I came across the tennis team of my university (who I very well knew since I spent a lot of time at the courts) in a bus stop on the way to Costanza. There I swam in the Blacksea and not much enjoyed the feeling of saltless brownish-blackish dirty water.
From there I travelled to Budapest, Vienna, and Prag as a backpacker. I Budapest I spent time with the most intersting group of people, all from different places and danced for more than 6 hours in a bar. To Vienna I arrived on a sunday and everywhere was closed. I did not like it much there and I moved to Prag. There I did not enjoy much the houses and details since I had heard about them so much and after this root it was kind of boring. However, I enjoyed a variety of modern art exhibitions and I dream of organizing one in Abkhazia in a near future. When I arrived to Stutgart, Germany- I had only one Euro left in my pocket with which I called my aunt and asked her to pick me up at the train station.
I traveled to Poland from Germany. Before attending a conference in Krakow, I visited my best friend from university in Szcezcin, who was visiting her family at the time. At the conference in Krakow, I met a very interesting researcher from Israel and we walked in Zakopane mountains.
Later, I traveled for the first time to the Caucasus- to Adyghea. Stayed there for 3 months, enjoyed real good friendships as well as many troubles but managed to write my dissertation with the help of sisters* and big brother* there (*very distant cousins in European senses) .
I saw all Adyghea in two months while I was doing research.
After a year I quitted my job, than finished my masters and decided to travel the world for three months. My friend suggested I start my travel from Abkhazia. And I said --why not! And that is how my life changed.
coming soon: field work in Abkhazia
So after this I was more comfortable, more open minded, and enjoyed every minute of field work travels. Because I knew-- anyhting could happen and it will be informative for my work and good feeling for my soul.
My third field work outside of Turkey was to Romania, to understand the determining factors of identity of the Crimean Tatars. I came across the tennis team of my university (who I very well knew since I spent a lot of time at the courts) in a bus stop on the way to Costanza. There I swam in the Blacksea and not much enjoyed the feeling of saltless brownish-blackish dirty water.
From there I travelled to Budapest, Vienna, and Prag as a backpacker. I Budapest I spent time with the most intersting group of people, all from different places and danced for more than 6 hours in a bar. To Vienna I arrived on a sunday and everywhere was closed. I did not like it much there and I moved to Prag. There I did not enjoy much the houses and details since I had heard about them so much and after this root it was kind of boring. However, I enjoyed a variety of modern art exhibitions and I dream of organizing one in Abkhazia in a near future. When I arrived to Stutgart, Germany- I had only one Euro left in my pocket with which I called my aunt and asked her to pick me up at the train station.
I traveled to Poland from Germany. Before attending a conference in Krakow, I visited my best friend from university in Szcezcin, who was visiting her family at the time. At the conference in Krakow, I met a very interesting researcher from Israel and we walked in Zakopane mountains.
Later, I traveled for the first time to the Caucasus- to Adyghea. Stayed there for 3 months, enjoyed real good friendships as well as many troubles but managed to write my dissertation with the help of sisters* and big brother* there (*very distant cousins in European senses) .
I saw all Adyghea in two months while I was doing research.
After a year I quitted my job, than finished my masters and decided to travel the world for three months. My friend suggested I start my travel from Abkhazia. And I said --why not! And that is how my life changed.
coming soon: field work in Abkhazia
Tuesday, March 23, 2010
Yes, today I cried. And I am not shamed of it...
Today, I cried. Most of the day I had been crying. Sometimes I tried to hold myself. I could not. The reason was not the ongoing effect of the death of Abkhazia's hero and symbol of independence...
The reason was not the jobs, reports and proposals I got to finish...
The reason was not the village heads that promised to call, or meet but didn't to give me the questionnaires they were supposed to fill in...
The reason was not the death of an elderly woman I knew, who had lost her son just a few weeks back...
It was a book. It was a memoir of an Abkhaz war veteran from Turkey, Bekir Ashba- I am cold (Üşüyorum)... There are so many thing to tell about it. But I would not like to destroy the feeling of it. Oh yes, it creates such a feeling that I could not leave it aside except for the minutes I looked for handkerchiefs and except for the moment I could not see anything because of my wet eyes. Don't think of this book as a book that agitates, that tries to make you cry. It is just the pure feelings and memories of a man- no I am sorry-- of a boy, who has lived SELF-REALIZATION of his Abkhaz identity, and Caucasian origins; who has become a pro-return Cherkess; who has lived the reality of WAR, death of friends; conflicts with father, family, elderly and friends; the breaking of his heart when he could not be in both with his family and with his country at once...
I could finish reading this book today. But I had to stop. To breath in the realities of the time... I stopped reading. Because I know what will come next, just with the earned victory, more loss, more pain...
Today I cried. Not for something that happened. Not for something that can happen. I cried for today I am living here in Abkhazia, free, comfortable, with hope and expectations, thanks to people like those in that memoir, who put their hearts on independence and freedom of their homeland. Yes, I cried. and I am not shamed of it.
The reason was not the jobs, reports and proposals I got to finish...
The reason was not the village heads that promised to call, or meet but didn't to give me the questionnaires they were supposed to fill in...
The reason was not the death of an elderly woman I knew, who had lost her son just a few weeks back...
It was a book. It was a memoir of an Abkhaz war veteran from Turkey, Bekir Ashba- I am cold (Üşüyorum)... There are so many thing to tell about it. But I would not like to destroy the feeling of it. Oh yes, it creates such a feeling that I could not leave it aside except for the minutes I looked for handkerchiefs and except for the moment I could not see anything because of my wet eyes. Don't think of this book as a book that agitates, that tries to make you cry. It is just the pure feelings and memories of a man- no I am sorry-- of a boy, who has lived SELF-REALIZATION of his Abkhaz identity, and Caucasian origins; who has become a pro-return Cherkess; who has lived the reality of WAR, death of friends; conflicts with father, family, elderly and friends; the breaking of his heart when he could not be in both with his family and with his country at once...
I could finish reading this book today. But I had to stop. To breath in the realities of the time... I stopped reading. Because I know what will come next, just with the earned victory, more loss, more pain...
Today I cried. Not for something that happened. Not for something that can happen. I cried for today I am living here in Abkhazia, free, comfortable, with hope and expectations, thanks to people like those in that memoir, who put their hearts on independence and freedom of their homeland. Yes, I cried. and I am not shamed of it.
Monday, March 22, 2010
Sometimes words are not enough
I know that there is a need to make a connection with my previous post before going on with ordinary life. Though life is running, I can not say it is back to normal. And it wont be so easy to be back to normal...
Just two days ago we were in Muk village doing some interviews on agriculture with the villagers. The first house, I entered with my interviewer Mramza, who had not that much of an experience (she is working at the university and never found the chance).
So we were met by the bride of the house in the garden and than invited inside. The father of the house greeted us şnfront of the house. The first thing he said "I am very sorry but I have drank, i am coming from a funeral. And I have been very sad lately. You know we have lost our great leader, hero Ardzynba just recently. And I saw you both at the funeral, it was on TV. But everyone was there..." " Yes everyone was there" responded Mramza... We entered and she started the interview. Than, in the middle a guest arrived and the topic again returned to Ardzynba. The old man's words were just like what a friend had told me on the day he died: "I feel like I have lost a son". Similar remembrance words were repeated in many of the houses we visited. Ardzynba was a family member. And he will stay that way in people's memories...
I got a lot of things to tell about the field work. But today still is not the right time. Besides they are doing some repairs in electric power station and we have constant balckouts... Maybe tomorrow the sun will help me find the right words. Oh yes, the weather is warm here. Spring has arrived here already.
Just two days ago we were in Muk village doing some interviews on agriculture with the villagers. The first house, I entered with my interviewer Mramza, who had not that much of an experience (she is working at the university and never found the chance).
So we were met by the bride of the house in the garden and than invited inside. The father of the house greeted us şnfront of the house. The first thing he said "I am very sorry but I have drank, i am coming from a funeral. And I have been very sad lately. You know we have lost our great leader, hero Ardzynba just recently. And I saw you both at the funeral, it was on TV. But everyone was there..." " Yes everyone was there" responded Mramza... We entered and she started the interview. Than, in the middle a guest arrived and the topic again returned to Ardzynba. The old man's words were just like what a friend had told me on the day he died: "I feel like I have lost a son". Similar remembrance words were repeated in many of the houses we visited. Ardzynba was a family member. And he will stay that way in people's memories...
I got a lot of things to tell about the field work. But today still is not the right time. Besides they are doing some repairs in electric power station and we have constant balckouts... Maybe tomorrow the sun will help me find the right words. Oh yes, the weather is warm here. Spring has arrived here already.
Saturday, March 6, 2010
Its raining and raining...
It's been raining nearly non-stop for the last two days... The sky was so dark, and the cold was so itchy, and the streets were so silent that it felt like the mood of the people is reflected by the nature. I know that its the season for such sudden weather changes and long rains. Still, one can not stop thinking how our lives are so much connected with the nature and that (super)natural events take place when in life, there has been a sudden turn of events.
Like a Kontradieff cycle, there are ups-and-downs in the nature, so in the political systems, so in culture, so in demography and so in our lives. We born, grow, get old and die. Sometimes the cycle is broken by external factors. In the case of important political leaders, the cycle can break at the peek. For Ardzynba, that's what has happened. His life cycle has come to an end. He no more breaths among us. But his political cycle- that's something at its peek and will not start getting down as long as the Abkhaz nation lives free and independent in their own land.
So this site is all about daily life in Abkhazia. At some points I tried to tell what has been going on with official words of the state institutions, some other time I gave links to pictures. Now, I am trying to tell the past, the moment and the future- all at once, and all through a single character-V. Ardzynba. It is not easy.
What made him so important? That part you can all find in a simple search. But in short, I can say he was the leader of Abkhazia who has lead the people and the country at a very hard time-war. Just in 1992-1993 took place the war, that brought the independence, freedom, honor, besides pain, loss, barocade, suffering to Abkhaz people. And he was there. Strong. Logical. Realistic. Courageous. Dignified. Elegant. Productive. Perseptive. Historian. Academician. Thinker. Hero. Leader.
Abkhaz nation had long existed. So the political history of this nation. But he, connected the past to the present, brother to the brother, nation to the state, state to the future.
In the political participation survey we did just a year ago, despite his heavy illness some people mentioned him as the ideal leader and politician of the time. If we had asked all times, the rate would be higher for sure... So he was out of politics but he was there, till the last breath he took, thinking of his nation, proud of what the Abkhaz youth has turned into, honored to see the developments of the country, aware of the ongoing process of of change and the role of each citizen in this process. And so did the people know, he was thinking of them...
An eastern belief says the breath you are going to take in life is limited and fixed in your life time. He has breathed in such a way that his last breath lives in everything he has created.
I wrote before. I never had the chance to meet him. Luckily I could read some of his writings, both political and academic. I see myself lucky to be here at this very moment, when I can see in the eyes of every woman and man who he is.
So let me tell you how the news of his death reached us. "Is it true?" was the call I got from a repatriant boy... "They are saying Ardzynba has passed away. Is it true". I did not know the answer. So I called a friend. Asked her "Is it true?" She said "unfortunately." So I called someone else.... That's how we all learned about it. Than they put his photos on the screen in AT and Abaza TV. Than it was all about him.
I went to work and nobody seemed to know anything at all. How, when, where were the repeated questions and everybody was telling their own mind. Nobody had any answers.
Than the news came. He died in cold morning, in Moscow where he was taking treatment for his chronic illness.
The next morning they made a ceremony in Moscow.
Than there was a rumor saying his body will arrive to Abkhazia at 6 o'clock in the evening. The people started to gather at the Abkhazia's not working airport long before that time. It was such a heavy rain and seemed to increase as people got excited when somebody said they had seen a light or heard a voice. But it was only the lightening and the wind that they saw and hear...
At 9, the plane landed. The longest minutes seemed the ones when the plane circled the ground after landing. Abkhazia's current president S. Bagapsh had arrived a while ago and was waiting among the people. The plane parked and suddenly people were all walking towards the plane.
There were about three thousand people, who were all wet both because of crying and the rains. And there was the proud Abkhaz army who carried his coffin out of the plane.
He left the airport at 9.40... On the way home there were people standing on both sides of the road. Standing still and silent. Some were holding their cry but their eyes couldn't.
At the airport were children and the elderly women and men and abkhaz and adyghe and ubykh and families and friends and political allies and political oppositions and war veterans and military and many many more...
Nearly all went to his house and it was huge crowd that had been waiting. And people rushed to say their fairwells to their hero...
A line of people was climbing the stairs to his flat on the third floor of an appartment, infront of which we had been washed by chaimpaign, opened by his wife- also a historian- on the day of the recognition.
So here we were. In his house. This was not the meeting we had dreamed of. But we met at last. And I am honored for that...
Today, he is being visited by people from all over Abkhazia. They say the official farewell ceremony and the funeral will be on tuesday. Till than our street (oh yes, we live in the same street) will be crowded by silent people, the only voice heard will be that of the rain, and that of the hold down sob of the people...
Like a Kontradieff cycle, there are ups-and-downs in the nature, so in the political systems, so in culture, so in demography and so in our lives. We born, grow, get old and die. Sometimes the cycle is broken by external factors. In the case of important political leaders, the cycle can break at the peek. For Ardzynba, that's what has happened. His life cycle has come to an end. He no more breaths among us. But his political cycle- that's something at its peek and will not start getting down as long as the Abkhaz nation lives free and independent in their own land.
So this site is all about daily life in Abkhazia. At some points I tried to tell what has been going on with official words of the state institutions, some other time I gave links to pictures. Now, I am trying to tell the past, the moment and the future- all at once, and all through a single character-V. Ardzynba. It is not easy.
What made him so important? That part you can all find in a simple search. But in short, I can say he was the leader of Abkhazia who has lead the people and the country at a very hard time-war. Just in 1992-1993 took place the war, that brought the independence, freedom, honor, besides pain, loss, barocade, suffering to Abkhaz people. And he was there. Strong. Logical. Realistic. Courageous. Dignified. Elegant. Productive. Perseptive. Historian. Academician. Thinker. Hero. Leader.
Abkhaz nation had long existed. So the political history of this nation. But he, connected the past to the present, brother to the brother, nation to the state, state to the future.
In the political participation survey we did just a year ago, despite his heavy illness some people mentioned him as the ideal leader and politician of the time. If we had asked all times, the rate would be higher for sure... So he was out of politics but he was there, till the last breath he took, thinking of his nation, proud of what the Abkhaz youth has turned into, honored to see the developments of the country, aware of the ongoing process of of change and the role of each citizen in this process. And so did the people know, he was thinking of them...
An eastern belief says the breath you are going to take in life is limited and fixed in your life time. He has breathed in such a way that his last breath lives in everything he has created.
I wrote before. I never had the chance to meet him. Luckily I could read some of his writings, both political and academic. I see myself lucky to be here at this very moment, when I can see in the eyes of every woman and man who he is.
So let me tell you how the news of his death reached us. "Is it true?" was the call I got from a repatriant boy... "They are saying Ardzynba has passed away. Is it true". I did not know the answer. So I called a friend. Asked her "Is it true?" She said "unfortunately." So I called someone else.... That's how we all learned about it. Than they put his photos on the screen in AT and Abaza TV. Than it was all about him.
I went to work and nobody seemed to know anything at all. How, when, where were the repeated questions and everybody was telling their own mind. Nobody had any answers.
Than the news came. He died in cold morning, in Moscow where he was taking treatment for his chronic illness.
The next morning they made a ceremony in Moscow.
Than there was a rumor saying his body will arrive to Abkhazia at 6 o'clock in the evening. The people started to gather at the Abkhazia's not working airport long before that time. It was such a heavy rain and seemed to increase as people got excited when somebody said they had seen a light or heard a voice. But it was only the lightening and the wind that they saw and hear...
At 9, the plane landed. The longest minutes seemed the ones when the plane circled the ground after landing. Abkhazia's current president S. Bagapsh had arrived a while ago and was waiting among the people. The plane parked and suddenly people were all walking towards the plane.
 |
| From Ardzynba |
There were about three thousand people, who were all wet both because of crying and the rains. And there was the proud Abkhaz army who carried his coffin out of the plane.
 |
| From Ardzynba |
He left the airport at 9.40... On the way home there were people standing on both sides of the road. Standing still and silent. Some were holding their cry but their eyes couldn't.
At the airport were children and the elderly women and men and abkhaz and adyghe and ubykh and families and friends and political allies and political oppositions and war veterans and military and many many more...
Nearly all went to his house and it was huge crowd that had been waiting. And people rushed to say their fairwells to their hero...
 |
| From Ardzynba |
A line of people was climbing the stairs to his flat on the third floor of an appartment, infront of which we had been washed by chaimpaign, opened by his wife- also a historian- on the day of the recognition.
 |
| From celebrations |
So here we were. In his house. This was not the meeting we had dreamed of. But we met at last. And I am honored for that...
Today, he is being visited by people from all over Abkhazia. They say the official farewell ceremony and the funeral will be on tuesday. Till than our street (oh yes, we live in the same street) will be crowded by silent people, the only voice heard will be that of the rain, and that of the hold down sob of the people...
Thursday, March 4, 2010
Ardzynba...
For those who are associated with the Abkhaz history this name means a lot of things... For those who are living in Abkhazia, this name means independence, freedom, nation, family and many more things. In the last few years many books have been published dedicated to him. A photo album was prepared from his photos that were taken to exhibitions all around Abkhazia.
He was the first president of the Independent Republic of Abkhazia after leading the Georgian-Abkhaz war in 1992-1993. He was a valuable academician, his archeological-historical studies are of great value to researchers. "He was a lucky politician" said a friend today. "He has seen victory, freedom, independence, establishment and development of a new state, and at last- recognition".
Now on TV different people tell their feelings about his death. The frequent words that my ear cathces are "leader" "the symbol of abkhaz nation" "independence" "victory""great lost" "cant talk no more".
He was a member of each family. He was well known and liked in the Diaspora. He was respected very much even by his oppositioners.
Now they show an interview with him at the time of the war... The interview asks -"when will the war end?". He responds -"first you got the understand how it started."
I had a lot of things to write. But I feel like I won't be able to find the right words. Just want to say, to help you understand why it is so hard for me, someone who never meet him (I was going to meet him but since his illness got worse on the day we were supposed to, which was the 15th anniversary of the starting of the war...)
Just yesterday I was saying from our experience of the field works we have been doing, how happy, how peacefull are the people of Abkhazia. You could see it in their eyes, in their lives, they were living in a stability and they were hopeful. Today all I see is red and wet eyes around me. Even in the eyes of the people that I thought were politically in the opposition of Ardzynba, I can see the tears. Because they are well aware of that he has helped them gain and protect: their nation, their country, their future...
Wednesday, March 3, 2010
Information for future Visitors of Abkhazia-updated
Information for future visitors of Abkhazia!!!!
1- You must understand that although Abkhazia seems in any international map you have, as part of Georgia, de facto it is not! It is an independent country with her own official institutions, own constitution and own regulations.
2- Please check if a visa to enter Abkhazia is required for you according to the passport you have at the Ministry of Foriegn Affairs of the Republic of Abkhazia's official website at :
http://mfaabkhazia.org/en/
3- If you require a visa than please fill in the form at that page and send it to the ministry before your trip. You should have a letter of clearance when you arrive. And it takes time to receive this email. Please consider you will have to pay 20 dolars for your visa at your arrival to Sohum otherwise you can not get your printed visa which is your ticket out! If you do not require a visa than enjoy your journey directly.
4- Please consider that Abkhazia's status is recognized officially by Russia, Nicaragua, Venezuela, Nauru, South Ossetia and Transnistria. (besides people from all over the world recognize its independence-such as the UNPO members). There is still an ongoing embargo from the west- both informational and travel (you can find anything you need in the local market and shops so I do not count the economic embargo). The borders are open but it is not very easy to pass because of the regulations and restrictions on both Georgian and Russian side.
5- If you will come from Adler-Psou, the Russian Border you can not leave the country from the Georgian border since you will be arrested by the Georgians and be charged 900 Euros and there is nothing Abkhazia can do about that- only to tell you the risks. If you require a visa for Russia than you MUST have a double entry visa to go back but now that the Russian consulate is opened in Sukhum, maybe you could get a transit visa but you have to check it at the MFA Abkhazia too. The border is a little crowded in summer and autumn - since many people wants to come here for a cheap holiday and in autumn there is a trade of mandarin going on. Usually, Russians take their time in document checking since they want it to be as problematic as possible for the visitors so that they will not come again... Still last few years, people from Germany, Spain, Denmark, Belgium, England, France, USA and some other parts of the world came to Abkhazia and enjoyed their visit.
6- If you will come from Georgia they say that you may have to wait for 2 weeks to get a permission which you may not receive at all. This is usually the answer when you ask if you can. I think the best way is to just go and pass the border but I do not want to be the one to suggest. The information I got is not something you can trust. But if you manage to get it than you may go back from the same border or through Psou to Russia if you have a suitable Russian visa. If you go back to Georgia, it is possible that you may be questioned informally on your purposes of visit but it is not usually very problematic as far as I heard!
7- I know it seems too much trouble to take. But I think it will worth it!!!! Ask the people who have already come!!! We have the greatest nature, best sea, interesting traditional couzine, the Ritza lake region for mountaineers and people who love trekking and camping in the mountains (snowboarders came to Abkhazia just a few years back to ski in untouched snow), religious monuments such as the 300 year old church, or the monastry, a great history that we know little about- the dolmens that belongs to an old past, the castles of hundreds of years, the exiled Abkhazians of the Tsarist period and their distinct Caucasian culture still living in the modern world, the Soviet heritage- we are all one and equal- you can still see the same piece of Muhina glass in every house, the Abkhazian-Goergian war of the 1990s- with its monuments and loss in every family and its remains in every corner, the transition period with its "capitals"- the market that has it all....
Friday, February 19, 2010
Dizzy, Busy, Fizzy
When I said I have Vertigo a friend told me is reminds him of Hitchcock! Believe me Hitchcock thrillers are tender to how I feel. Dizziness is not the right word to describe the feeling of world floating and turning around you! Yes the world is turning around me in the non-sarcastic sense!
I have to deal with so many things alone now- I am overloaded! Martha, where are you? I hope you are happy in Moscow because I can hardly manage this work since you are gone. My only comfort will be your happiness...
I completed the 10 finger writing training in Abkhaz and I want to turn it into an online training so that the methodology I created would be of use to more people- but when??? I also want to install Linux in Abkhazian in my computer but I need to clean it up and take it there for a few hours. There should be an online version but I just could not find it...
I have also completed the pilot study of the agricultural assessment and I should be in the field soon but I do not know if I will survive a whole day- considering we will be travelling up the mountains (where most least developed villages are) and it can be tricky for my central balance system!
I feel my eyes burning now so I cut it here. I hope to write back soon- and upload some photos from the ongoing weekly events of repatrianst and local youth! They are playing (Чааҧшы) Chaapshy- a traditional diaspora meeting game! Where people hit each others' hands or a selected leader hits everyone's hands if they don't want to give away their partner sitting next to them. If they give away, than the partner changes place with another of same sex. So that all boys meet all girls during the play. The more the people, the more fun it is...
I have to deal with so many things alone now- I am overloaded! Martha, where are you? I hope you are happy in Moscow because I can hardly manage this work since you are gone. My only comfort will be your happiness...
I completed the 10 finger writing training in Abkhaz and I want to turn it into an online training so that the methodology I created would be of use to more people- but when??? I also want to install Linux in Abkhazian in my computer but I need to clean it up and take it there for a few hours. There should be an online version but I just could not find it...
I have also completed the pilot study of the agricultural assessment and I should be in the field soon but I do not know if I will survive a whole day- considering we will be travelling up the mountains (where most least developed villages are) and it can be tricky for my central balance system!
I feel my eyes burning now so I cut it here. I hope to write back soon- and upload some photos from the ongoing weekly events of repatrianst and local youth! They are playing (Чааҧшы) Chaapshy- a traditional diaspora meeting game! Where people hit each others' hands or a selected leader hits everyone's hands if they don't want to give away their partner sitting next to them. If they give away, than the partner changes place with another of same sex. So that all boys meet all girls during the play. The more the people, the more fun it is...
Sunday, January 31, 2010
Istanbul-Abkhazia
When I was just a high school student, with my best friend we used to pass this road and dream of a future where we could buy this house and repair it. We could live in it if we were rich enough. If not we could repair it to turn it into a cafe where we could have space for people who like to read or study in a cafe but don't have money to eat or drink all day long. We never bought that house. No one did. We changed a lot. We have not seen each other with that good friend for over 10 years. I don't even know where she is, what she does. Istanbul is too big to know, too big to come across on the road, too big even to remember... It needed 15 years to pass before I remember those days we used to walk dancing under an unexpected rain, it needed 14 years before I remembered I learned how to play tennis in the French school on the corner (Saint Joseph). 
It needed 20 years before my mother reminded me how I had chosen to go to a state school instead of that private French school to protect the economy of my family. And it needed 30 years for me to stop and look at my life- how I came to Abkhazia from Istanbul- from the city of dreams, from the city of my youth, from the city where my father sleeps his endless dream, from the city my grandmother sings the song of silence...And now looking at my life, I live somewhere which I did not dreamed of. And I have many new dreams, I am not sure if I will see the days they become real. I dream of the days the Abkhazia hotel will be repaired. Now it is only covered with a painted set of cloth!
And I dream of the warm days to come to play tennis in the courts that many tennis players won't count as courts. In those courts, there is no line on the ground- territory is specified by white tread which you stumble upon when you are running, and the ground is so bumpy that after every rain you find yourself all over in mud.
But I like life here. It is a life many fear, many try to run away from it, many do not want to pass near... But for me, it is a life full of question marks, like a matrix I need to find the code of. It is not to master the matrix what I aim, but to be able to see it as a whole. To be able to see what is behind that clothes hanged over a building by the sea, to be able to see what is in the mind of a tennis teacher teaching tens of children how to play tennis in this courts, to be able to see what makes the people so powerful to stand against the will of "others" who wish something different for them, to be able to see myself looking from the eyes of "others"...
Saturday, January 2, 2010
Ҽааныбзиала...
(The luck coin from the Greek cake)
Happy new year to everyone!
I feel so tired. There is no other way to legitimize my laziness. Followers may think I am talking about not writing to my blog. However, I mean the last three days which I want to do nothing at all. Sleeping till midday and being sleepy the rest of the day... Even after new year I spent an hour sleepy, lying on the bed. But pushed myself out after 1 o'clock to the private late night party at Anya's cafe (Glitsinia).
(I turned my back when they cut the Greek cake and I was the one to tell who would get which piece)
I did not stay till the end of the party since we were afraid they will rob our house. What is to be stolen if they break in: my computer which became my life in the recent months due to the research projects. Well I would lose only some photos few months ago- but now: posters, photos, reports, questionnaires, the latest version of my methodology book, and many more. That is everything I have managed to build after 3 years. I know it is necessary to backup your most important documents online. The reality is I used to do that very often back in the days when I did not have a laptop but used university computers. I tried to find some docs recently and I managed to find nothing! Some questionnaires for example, or data, or even some reports that I participated in writing. I have no copies of the latest versions. So I decided to load things when they are ready only. But this creates a risk of loosing them- when a computer crashes or gets stolen!
(The late night cooking: shashlik)
Well I know that we are being paranoiac but thats normal after being robbed once. A few years back my grandfather was robbed by armed gangsters. He passed away afterwords. Than they robbed our car when I was in turkey stealing my camera with photos from the first fieldwork on the topic of political participation-bad luck.
Than they tried to rob me on the bus (2 times) - one received the reaction he deserves at least from me (the other people did not react which is a shame) thats why the second time I preferred to play a game with the boy!
Anyway, these events are distributed to the last 4 years so maybe it is really paranoiac but if you have knowledge to lose you care...
Anyway, it is important to tell what new year means in Abkhazia since in every country understanding is different. The new year joy starts mid december, by bombachki (çata pat in turkish, small size explosives) blowing around. The 31st is much more noisy together with thousands of fireworks and gun shots.
Of course the new year is also identified by non-stop drinking, no work (even for shops which sell PRESENTS were closed on the 31st!!!), long tables (no bread in the few open shops for three days-they say "dont you know how to bake achof??"- kind of covered cheese pizza), many calls and messages (luckily the phone companies make many campaigns but sure they will take it from us in the end), and 4 different days of celebration: 24th of DEC-Catholic Christmas, 31st of DEC- New Year, 7th of JAN- Orthodox Christmas, 11th of JAN- Abkhaz New Year-The Day of the Blacksmiths.
The new year is celebrated with family on a long lasting table. Young people ran away to the streets at midnight. Come together and spend time cooking again in the middle of the night.
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